Discuss Tips on setting out brick effect in the Tiling Forum at TilersForums; Just about to do a kitchen and the tiles are those brick shaped ones.Whats the best way to set these out to get the brickwall look.Plus what mm spacer would ...
Just about to do a kitchen and the tiles are those brick shaped ones.Whats the best way to set these out to get the brickwall look.Plus what mm spacer would be best to use?Any advice is very welcome guys.
All you need to do mate is start the 2nd row half a tile across if you see what i mean so the edge of one tile is the middle of the tile in the row above or below. If its the tiles im thinking of id go 2mm spacer.
Hi Steve,use 2mm spacers and for the brick bond mark the tiles on a long piece of wood staff about 1.5m long and include the spacer at the end of each tile,then in between the marks find the halfwat point and mark this all along to the end and this will be your second course of tiles,adjust along the wall to suit making sure you have decent cuts at the ends.Brick bond
For me, i like to centre the extractor fan on the cooker wall. So this will be both the middle of a tile and the edge of a tile plus a mm (2mm grout gaps). Then a quick check to the unit edges and corners to make sure there are no slivers. Also consider socket position as well.
As Charlie says the tiles should wrap around a corner, however if the other wall has a window, i like to centre it as well and set the tiles out accordingly so that if a small tile runs into the ajoining corner from the cooker wall then a long tile runs out along the window wall. The tile can be 'stretched' or 'shrunk' a little to suit the window centreing.
Hope this makes sense and yep 2mm grout lines for me.
Just out of curiosity, as i know next to nothing about tiling... Is it unheard of to use different brick bonds in tiling? Like Flemish for example; far more attractive, but would require lots more cutting i guess!?! And how would you go about pricing that!?!
Another point to note is that if the tiles are heavily bevelled, then using tile trim with them can look hideous if you use a full tile into it. If the tile has a heavy bevel, then it is better to try and have cuts into the trim on the 1/4 - 3/4, if you see what I mean.
Oh, I don't have a laser level yet but I think brick bond is one situation where they would really help as it can be tricky sometimes following through your lines between courses. A laser would help here.
Last edited by grumpygrouter; 24-08-2008 at 06:28 PM.
Take regular spacers (2 mm) and cut one spoke off, then you have a perfect spacer to do a brick joint, but make certain the cut is done perfect every time without a bump or things will go bad for you.
Use a small level to find where the next course will start, or better yet just figure that out before tiling and draw the vertical lines on the wall.
Can't go wrong that way.
Take regular spacers (2 mm) and cut one spoke off, then you have a perfect spacer to do a brick joint, but make certain the cut is done perfect every time without a bump or things will go bad for you.
Use a small level to find where the next course will start, or better yet just figure that out before tiling and draw the vertical lines on the wall.
Can't go wrong that way.
We can get "T" shaped spacers over here. Are the available where you are?
I have never seen them here and so I have always trimmed my own.
I like to push them in flat on some tiles and on others I just use the standard ones with one spoke pushed in where needed.
Makes for lots of spacers but they are easy to pull out then.
I also use wedges on occasion.
Just out of curiosity, as i know next to nothing about tiling... Is it unheard of to use different brick bonds in tiling? Like Flemish for example; far more attractive, but would require lots more cutting i guess!?! And how would you go about pricing that!?!
I did this for my brother last year. He says its old English bond, or something like that.
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