removing existing tiles,best way about it

[spenny]

Hi guys,

got a job where there are existing slate tiles on an outside patio and the customer wants them removed with new tiles to go on. Its a arge area of approx 50m2

When removing the slate tiles(i believe its concrete underneath) what would you recommend the best way to go about it is? Obviously the main aim is to get the substrate as flat as possible to enable me to tile straight back onto them, but i know its unrealistic to get tiles off and leave flat surface. Just good old elbow grease and a scraper? or is there a easier method anyone can recommend?

[salmonfisher]

sds drill and tile chisel but slate can sometimes be a nightmare to lift

[faithhealer]

sds drill and tile chisel but slate can sometimes be a nightmare to lift

As above, and park the skip close by!

[bigneil]

sds drill and tile chisel but slate can sometimes be a nightmare to lift

AYE, get the HILTI out, chisel head, and get stuck in
if the concrete underneath is left a wee bit lumpy then you could either pour some self leveling compound on, or maybe just spread thick bed of adhesive and butter the backs of the tiles too, then you can bed them nicely over the lumps.

[sWe]

Same as above, though I'd use something larger and more powerfull than SDS+ for 50sqm of slate. If you haven't got an SDS+ roto-stop hammer or something similar, and intend to rent one, I suggest you go for something like a Hilti TE-905 (SDS-Max). It's one of the most powerful tools in it's weight class, with roughly four times more power than most good quality SDS+ type tools. It's really good at what it does, and with a wide tile removal chisel, it won't harm the substrate, which is normally a risk with such powerful tools.

I share a TE-905 with a friend, and it's awesome for heavy duty work.

[Dave]

How about hiring one of these babies.......




Or you could just do it the old fashioned way.........

[sWe]

I've tried the last one, and I can say it probably won't work very well when dealing with thick porcelain type tiles on concrete which have been fitted well. That was the case when I tried it. The tiles didn't shatter like they did in the video, and very few actually came loose, but they did send chips flying, and those buggers are damn sharp.

[spenny]

Sorry,but what is a SDS drill?? And how much should i expect to pay?

[spenny]

..........and another quick thing-suggesting tiling on top of the existing slate tiles?? How much easier/problematic would that be (I'm thinking it may be easier,but given the indifferences in slates surface may actually not make it that much easier?!) anyone had any experience of this?

[bigneil]

Sorry,but what is a SDS drill?? And how much should i expect to pay?

sorry, should have explained. SDS drill has a setting that allowes you to disable the rotary motion of the drill and leave only the hammer action, it also has a special fitment for the bits which can be large chisel attachments. popular trusted brands include HILTI as mentioned. i couldn't afford one when i started out so i bought a cheap one out of argos 'challenge' was the brand. it was only 30 quid, the drill is still going strong and it is powerful enough to keep up the an expensive one, but. there is no anti vibration and the bits that came with it were really ****.
i guess you could tile onto the old tiles but if it is an outdoor location, depending on how long they have been down, they may not all still be stuck solid. maybe some of the other guys could offer advice as i have never tiled onto existing slate.

[CJ]

Wot about this?

YouTube - Tile Shark?- Floor Stripper

You are gonna need something more than an SDS drill on 50m. SDS for around the edges.

This is a cheapo SDS drill.........flick the lever for drilling.....flick the other way for kangoo type action........like a concrete breaker kind of thing.

Take into account (££) chisels/blades for it

[CJ]

And slate is a real Bitch to get up..........wear safety gear..........especially glasses

[Grace'sDad]

sorry, should have explained. SDS drill has a setting that allowes you to disable the rotary motion of the drill and leave only the hammer action, it also has a special fitment for the bits which can be large chisel attachments. popular trusted brands include HILTI as mentioned. i couldn't afford one when i started out so i bought a cheap one out of argos 'challenge' was the brand. it was only 30 quid, the drill is still going strong and it is powerful enough to keep up the an expensive one, but. there is no anti vibration and the bits that came with it were really ****.
i guess you could tile onto the old tiles but if it is an outdoor location, depending on how long they have been down, they may not all still be stuck solid. maybe some of the other guys could offer advice as i have never tiled onto existing slate.

Sorry mate you left out that he should look for SDS "STOP" - this is the setting to stop rotation.

[sWe]

I sense the need for an introduction to SDS-type tools....


SDS stands for "Special Direct System" and was developed by Bosch in the 1970's. It is a shank/chuck system for demolition hammers, and rotary hammers.

There are three standard variations.

• SDS+ - 10mm shank designed for hammers up to 4kg.
• SDS-top - 14mm shank designed for hammers between 2 and 5kg.
• SDS-max - Largest, with an 18mm shank, and it's designed for hammers weighing over 5kg.

Tools using the SDS-system normally have one, two, or three modes. If it's just one, it's normally a demolition hammer; two, and it's normally a rotary hammer, where mode 1 is rotation with hammering, and mode 2 is just rotation; three mode tools are often called "combi hammers", or "roto-stop drills/hammers". They have the all the three modes previously stated.

The size of the shank/chuck denote the power, size, and weight of the tool, and thus, SDS+ tools are normally the smallest of the bunch, where as SDS-max are normally the largest. SDS-top is uncommon.

SDS+ tools are normally in the power range of 1-5 joules per individual stroke, and SDS-max tools are normally in the power range of about 8-20. Combi hammers are normally weaker at pure chiseling than pure demolition hammers.

Cheap SDS-type tools are normally not particularly ergonomical to work with; they have poor hand-arm vibration dampening. They also tend to burn out during long working sessions.
Newer, high end SDS-type tools often come equipped with active vibration dampening. The later allow you to work longer with them, without negative effect on your health, assuming you take stanadard precautions, such as wearing thick gloves, safety goggles, and a face mask.

There are many, many different types of chisels and drills availible. From simple pointed chisels used for making holes in concrete and masonry, to wide agnled bolster type chisels for removing tiles, and flexible blade "knives", used for removing soft and/or brittle floor and wall coverings or residues.

Here ends this introduction to SDS-type tools