Help Me First Job - TilersForums.co.uk | Tile Forums

Hems · 02-07-2008

Hi all,
New to the trade and low on confidence so thought i'd run a few things by you, Firstly how important is it to overlay ply onto a small wooden floor (1.78 x 1.52 shower in corner, toilet and sink upstairs modern house) I appriciate that it is good practice however the owner claims there was no backing previously, and the tiler who tiled it since then (awful job hence they want it done again by someone else) also has not applied and ply under his tiles. ? I must be honest the floor does seem very stiff as it is only a small room. I was thinking that maybe i could use say a 7mm ply instead of the recommended 15mm. Also I had thought that I would also tank the floor before tiling, An experianced local tiler whom i drink with has told me that i simply need to prime (using a primer)the laid ply and tile straight over with a flexi adhesive ? .... Can anybody clear this up for me. I also have to remove the mess the last tiler made and fear that the original wooden flooring might get a battering in the process. Bit nervous as very new to the trade any advice most welcome.

**Varley** · 02-07-2008

Personally I would overlay with 6mm backerboard but if the floor is as stable as you say you could just prime and tile with a 2 part flexible adhesive and grout with a flexible grout (with additive). Wouldn't be my choice though, I always overlay wooden floors just to be on the safe side.

**grumpygrouter** · 02-07-2008

Got to agree with Marty here. If the floor is solid then the overboarding with ply acheives nothing except extra cost and a step! I presume you are taliking about chipboard on the floor? 6mm hardiebacker laid onto a bed of adhesive and screwed down in accordance with Hardie instructions will give a perfect surface to tile onto. You will get away with Single Part Flexible or Rapid Set flexy.

Alternatively you could go straight onto the boards with either BAL Fastflex or Ardex-flex 7001, and grout with a very flexible grout (in both cases). Both methods approved by the manufacturers of the adhesives.

Hems · 02-07-2008

Many thanks guys, I have not used hardibacker before so i will try and source it (not sure where from) How easy is it to cut around basin pedatsal? One more qustion if i may, i have seen bathroom floors completely sealed around egde's, where tile meets skirting with a silicon sealant, and other that are not ? whats best practice in your opinion. Thanks for advice really appriciate it. Not easy starting out.

Turkish · 02-07-2008

If the skirting board comes down onto the tiles and no water is likely to get under there then i wouldn`t seal but if you`re cutting upto the skirting then you can use the silicone to hide the cuts

Turkish

**Varley** · 02-07-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hems

Many thanks guys, I have not used hardibacker before so i will try and source it (not sure where from) How easy is it to cut around basin pedatsal? One more qustion if i may, i have seen bathroom floors completely sealed around egde's, where tile meets skirting with a silicon sealant, and other that are not ? whats best practice in your opinion. Thanks for advice really appriciate it. Not easy starting out.

We have Hardie reps on here now so i'm sure they will point you to your nearest dealer.

Your right it's not easy starting out but this forums helps a lot, if you are ever unsure of anything just come on here and ask, someone will point you in the right direction.

Keep at it

Lee1973 · 02-07-2008

Hi all, there's a lot of info to take in here! I've heard how good Hardibacker and Bal adhesives are, but here comes silly question! isn't the BS 25mm when laying ply? otherwise your works not guaranteed! I thought the miniumum you can go to is 18mm if its srewed down correctly or is this just for large floor areas etc? go easy on me its my first question on here!

Hems · 02-07-2008

Hi lee, im new so dont quote me...but my training notes say bs is 15mm !

bigneil · 02-07-2008

Read the adhesive packing, they will all recomend differently. just make sure you follow the guidlines of the adhesive you intend using.

bigneil · 02-07-2008

PS, if in doubt there is usually a number on the back of the tub/packet for any technical question you may have. i know BAL do that for sure. they will tell you what sort of prep work is needed for your intended adhesive, or if need be, they will recomend a better alternative

**grumpygrouter** · 02-07-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lee1973

Hi all, there's a lot of info to take in here! I've heard how good Hardibacker and Bal adhesives are, but here comes silly question! isn't the BS 25mm when laying ply? otherwise your works not guaranteed! I thought the miniumum you can go to is 18mm if its srewed down correctly or is this just for large floor areas etc? go easy on me its my first question on here!

In what situation are you looking to lay ply? Are you talking about strengthening the floor or have you just picked up somewhere that you MUST lay ply first before tiling?

Lee1973 · 02-07-2008

hi Hems, I'm skiving at work so haven't got my notes with me! i'm also new and not tiling yet as I'm still in the Army, did my course back in April and I'm doing some more training next week 15mm probabley is the miniumum I said 18mm off the top of my head better dig my notes out for next week!!! it just goes to show how good this place is for learning usefull trade knowledge, Schluter systems do a special matting that replaces the need for any ply its on U tube looks mint has anybody tried it? is it any good?