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Discuss
project no 2 in the
Tile Adhesive, Grout and Substrate Preparation at TilersForums;
hi helpers, well the toilet and basin have been installed for a year so its about time i tiled the shower room !
i tiled the bathroom with help from ... -
New TilersForums Contributor
project no 2
hi helpers, well the toilet and basin have been installed for a year so its about time i tiled the shower room !
i tiled the bathroom with help from here but ive forgotten what products i used
i am going to take off the tiles and replace the shower tray in the cubicle, will i need to tank the walls or would they had already been done before ?
the other walls were emulsioned with proper bathroom stuff, will i need to scrape off or apply a bonding before tiling ?
the wall tiles are ceramic 25cm X 33cm what is the best adhesive to use and how much ive got about 200 to slap up im sure i used BAL tub last time ?
ive only got about 15 31cm x 31cm floor tiles to do what and how much adhesive would i need, i think last time i used 2 part flexi stuff ?
i think the floor is chipboard, they are big squares and when i done the bathroom i screwed in loads of screws and the tiles seem to be ok and not cracked or am i taking a chance by doing that ?
cheers P M
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Re: project no 2
You'll need to re-tank the walls yes. Do it once the shower tray is in and tank to it.
Adhesive I'd use would be a mapei rapid set cement-based but their tubbed gear for the walls is very sticky.
You will need to remove the paint, you're right. And then perhaps score diamond shaped into the wall to get a really good key with the adhesive.
And if you can take a couple of photo's of the floor we'll let you know what adhesive would be more suitable and if you'd need to overboard or anything like that.
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Re: project no 2
With the right cement adhesive the tiles you 'slap up', might just stay on. cement board required for the floor
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doug boardley
Guest
Re: project no 2
if your walls are plasterboard, I'd simply replace them all with new and tank the shower area. On the chipboard floor I'd overlay it with 6mm hardibacker board making sure there is no deflection ("bounce") in the existing floor.
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Re: project no 2
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