Our final job in a long renovation, is our kitchen - the concrete floor is damp and I am desparate to discover a way of tiling it without having to take up the concrete floor to lay damp proofing membrane unerneath a new layer of concrete... The concrete in the other downstairs room was only a thin layer over pannett tiles - the kitchen floor is sadly rather more solid. As our ceilings are already very low we can't add another layer of damp-proofed concrete over the existing one.
Please, someone, give me some good news!!

How old is your property

what age property is it

marks done it again

You can use a dpm resin and skim over with 3mm slc (latex screed) and tile straight onto it. Ardex do a roll on dpm.

You might be able use a liquid dpm, mapei do one but cant recall the name at the mo, then you should be able to tile over that within a day or two.

Forgot to mention, you have to skim a latex layer before applying the dpm, and make sure it has no pin holes in it

Thank you for so many quick responses!
The property is a small 1820s middle terrace.

I'm liking the sound of a dpm resin and latex skim. 6 or 7 mm height loss I can cope with!

Is there any particular mortar that should be used on top of the latex screed?

Originally Posted by annacarter

Thank you for so many quick responses!
The property is a small 1820s middle terrace.

I'm liking the sound of a dpm resin and latex skim. 6 or 7 mm height loss I can cope with!
(Excuse the stupid question, but are dpm resin and liquid the same?)

Is there any particular mortar that should be used on top of the latex screed?

The dpm resin, is a sticky gooey 2 part epoxy based liquid to be precise.:thumbsup

I would advise a single part flexi tile adhesive on top which will enable you to have stone, ceramic or porcelain tiles fixed.

The liquid dpm that mapei do is called mapeproof esm, you have to mechanically abrade the surface first then apply the first coat, then after thats cured apply a second coat at right angels to the first, then apply a latex slc and then tile.

Have I missed something....
How damp is the concrete & why is it damp?

Depending on the condition of the concrete you could adhere a decoupling membrane, such as Dural-Ci. This will act as a vapour prevention barrier & is only 3mm thick.

Hmm, 'mechanical abrading' or 'sticky gooeyness'? The agony of choice! Either is definately better than drilling the whole lot out...


Know any plumbers or roofers??? They both stood me up this week!

you havent missed anything captain

has the property had a chemical dpc injected to the walls

Originally Posted by Captain Slow

Have I missed something....
How damp is the concrete & why is it damp?

Depending on the condition of the concrete you could adhere a decoupling membrane, such as Dural-Ci. This will act as a vapour prevention barrier & is only 3mm thick.

The floor is damp due to rising damp from ground. The walls have all had damp proof course / injection (about 3 years ago - we've been renovating rather slowly!). (In the other room we took up the concrete, original tiles, excavated, and laid dpm and celotex under new layer of concrete).

Hard to tell how damp the concrete is - it's got temporary lino over most of it - exposed bits are only damp to the touch - not visibly wet. The soil / sand directly under the concrete layer is damp to touch (no other foundations). I know we will need to take the lino up to air / dry the concrete some time before we lay the new floor, but the mouldy smell makes me want to leave the lino down as long as possible!

[QUOTE=annacarter;408753]Hmm, 'mechanical abrading' or 'sticky gooeyness'? The agony of choice! Either is definately better than drilling the whole lot out...


Know any plumbers or roofers??? They both stood me up this week![/QUOTE]
if you need a tiler contact dave, we daren't let him down,lol, where are you at?

Know any plumbers or roofers??? They both stood me up this week![/QUOTE]
if you need a tiler contact dave, we daren't let him down,lol, where are you at?[/QUOTE]


I live near Norwich

I might know a plumber, I'll speak to him tomorrow.

What plumbing do you need doing?

Originally Posted by Captain Slow

I might know a plumber, I'll speak to him tomorrow.

What plumbing do you need doing?

Thank you!
We need to move the sink about 3 meters (round a corner) It may be straightforward, but I don't know if there is a limit on how much gradient is needed for the waste pipe.