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Discuss tiling floor in the Tile Adhesive, Grout and Substrate Preparation at TilersForums; where is the best place to start tiling on a floor...
          
  1. #1
    New TilersForums Contributor daz1968's Avatar
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    Default tiling floor

    where is the best place to start tiling on a floor

  2. #2
    doug boardley
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    depends on the layout Daz, if it's a regular shaped floor, I find the centre and work to it so opposite sides have the same size cuts, a good tip is to work towards your doorway too!!

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    Default Re: tiling floor

    I find the centres and work out all the cuts, once I know where the first line of full tiles will be closest to the wall I start there, put all the cuts in as I go and work to the door.
    Make the floor out with a marker pen or use a guaging rod, try and make sure all cuts correspond to each other.


  4. #4
    New TilersForums Contributor daz1968's Avatar
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    Quote Originally Posted by diamondtiling View Post
    I find the centres and work out all the cuts, once I know where the first line of full tiles will be closest to the wall I start there, put all the cuts in as I go and work to the door.
    Make the floor out with a marker pen or use a guaging rod, try and make sure all cuts correspond to each other.

    i have marked the centre of room , but was considering starting from one of the right angles and working towards the wall , filling in that quarter and repeating the process on the other right angles . does this make sense

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    Default Re: tiling floor

    I would do row after row, maybe two at a time at most, cut as you go. what adhesive/grout are you using?

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    Tilers Forums Arms Member albyshellshear's Avatar
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    i would look at the floor from the first angle i.e.doorway, if it would look better with full cuts to a certain area i would go with that so as the cut tiles are in a more hidden position, if the floor was a perfect square then maybe start in the middle and work out but always working to the doorway to make my escape........Alby
    dont suffer problems find solutions

  7. #7
    doug boardley
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    I agree with Dom, what i was trying to say was, find the centre and then work out where the courses start in correspondence to the centre, you can either use the centre of the tile to straddle your centre lines or place the tile edge up to your centre line (allowing for half a grout joint width).Once I've worked this out I normally start at the furthest point on the left hand side of the door and come through parallel with the door wall 2 or 3 rows deep, depending on the size of the tile and how far I can reach. easier to do than explain tho'

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  9. #8
    New TilersForums Contributor daz1968's Avatar
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    Quote Originally Posted by albyshellshear View Post
    i would look at the floor from the first angle i.e.doorway, if it would look better with full cuts to a certain area i would go with that so as the cut tiles are in a more hidden position, if the floor was a perfect square then maybe start in the middle and work out but always working to the doorway to make my escape........Alby
    iiam a plasterer by trade thats why the questions , the floor is a one off for afreind. the roomis a small kitchen 18 x 12 which is bare the units will be fitted once tiled, the room is pretty square so measured to get right angle in the centre so now ihave four sections i have guaged the cuts and are ok becuase of units and the doorway is over half a tile. iwould like to be able to complete one quarter of the room including cuts then start on the opposite quater etc till i reach the door , does this sound okay

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    Default Re: tiling floor

    No, do a couple of rows at a time, completing box sections is not advisable


  12. #10
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    Quote Originally Posted by diamondtiling View Post
    No, do a couple of rows at a time, completing box sections is not advisable

    i am not sure what you mean. do i strike my lines then with my straight edge as a guide start running rows down the center line towards the door and across the the bisecting line towards each wall!

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    Default Re: tiling floor

    After marking out you will have a centre line, work out the tiles back to the wall, start laying the first full row, put the wall cuts in as you go and do row after row until you finish.

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  15. #12
    Regular TilersForums Contributor aqua blue's Avatar
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    There are no hard and fast rules in my view. Depends on the shape of the room.

    If it's a simple square or rectangle, I strike two chalk lines from the the four corners, that will leave a cross in the middle of the room. From that cross section I measure to see if that cross is dead centre to surrounding walls, if it's out, hopefully by not too much I take out that decrepentcy on both sides-compromise the tile layout so as it's shared on all sides. Then I do a dry tile run with spacers so as I end up with a cross of single file tiles, across and along the centre of the room out to the four walls. When I'm sure that the room will look balanced when the tiles are set I will strike some more lines as a guide and measure from those when needed. This allows me to do my cutting before I start. (need to be accurate)

    When cutting I will cut tile for the first half of the room furthest from the door, then install mechanically left to right. When the first half is finshed I cut the second half of tiles for the room, working left to right again, untill the great escape. The last row I do from corner to corner meeting in the middle of the row (door) to finish, that way I have avoided any weight pressure on the tiles throughout the installation. Phew!

    Hope this helps in some way.

    If the room is large I'll take it in thirds/quarters. I use the same method for grouting, stopping to clean every 15/20mins or when grout is stable enough to sponge off.

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  17. #13
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    However, if it's a centre patterned theme i start from centre then work around the edges to the door. Still do the last row thing. lol.

  18. #14
    doug boardley
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    Quote Originally Posted by diamondtiling View Post
    After marking out you will have a centre line, work out the tiles back to the wall, start laying the first full row, put the wall cuts in as you go and do row after row until you finish.
    that's what I was trying to say

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  20. #15
    New TilersForums Contributor daz1968's Avatar
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    Quote Originally Posted by aqua blue View Post
    There are no hard and fast rules in my view. Depends on the shape of the room.

    If it's a simple square or rectangle, I strike two chalk lines from the the four corners, that will leave a cross in the middle of the room. From that cross section I measure to see if that cross is dead centre to surrounding walls, if it's out, hopefully by not too much I take out that decrepentcy on both sides-compromise the tile layout so as it's shared on all sides. Then I do a dry tile run with spacers so as I end up with a cross of single file tiles, across and along the centre of the room out to the four walls. When I'm sure that the room will look balanced when the tiles are set I will strike some more lines as a guide and measure from those when needed. This allows me to do my cutting before I start. (need to be accurate)

    When cutting I will cut tile for the first half of the room furthest from the door, then install mechanically left to right. When the first half is finshed I cut the second half of tiles for the room, working left to right again, untill the great escape. The last row I do from corner to corner meeting in the middle of the row (door) to finish, that way I have avoided any weight pressure on the tiles throughout the installation. Phew!

    Hope this helps in some way.

    If the room is large I'll take it in thirds/quarters. I use the same method for grouting, stopping to clean every 15/20mins or when grout is stable enough to sponge off.
    i cannot understand the cross sections as i am laying from the centre out i am not laying a forty five degree angle if you know what i mean , it would be helpfull for someone to email me guide lines on the floor for laying tiles and ending up with a good job. my e mail is (Removed by Moderator) cheers i need help on where to start .
    Last edited by Sir Ramic; 25-02-2010 at 10:37 AM. Reason: Removed email, do you really want spam ?

  21. #16
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    Quote Originally Posted by aqua blue View Post
    There are no hard and fast rules in my view. Depends on the shape of the room.

    If it's a simple square or rectangle, I strike two chalk lines from the the four corners, that will leave a cross in the middle of the room. From that cross section I measure to see if that cross is dead centre to surrounding walls, if it's out, hopefully by not too much I take out that decrepentcy on both sides-compromise the tile layout so as it's shared on all sides. Then I do a dry tile run with spacers so as I end up with a cross of single file tiles, across and along the centre of the room out to the four walls. When I'm sure that the room will look balanced when the tiles are set I will strike some more lines as a guide and measure from those when needed. This allows me to do my cutting before I start. (need to be accurate)

    When cutting I will cut tile for the first half of the room furthest from the door, then install mechanically left to right. When the first half is finshed I cut the second half of tiles for the room, working left to right again, untill the great escape. The last row I do from corner to corner meeting in the middle of the row (door) to finish, that way I have avoided any weight pressure on the tiles throughout the installation. Phew!

    Hope this helps in some way.

    If the room is large I'll take it in thirds/quarters. I use the same method for grouting, stopping to clean every 15/20mins or when grout is stable enough to sponge off.
    this is very confusing advice and not a good way to set out or tile a floor ,
    you would be far better as a beginner to make up a guage stick/pinch rod and mark where your tiles will come on the floor ,this is far quicker than dry laying out tiles then readjusting them ,use a chalk line once you have you have decided the best layout for the area being tiled snap a line then find your square using 3,4,5 pythagoras triangle and snap another chalk line , from these first 2 square chalk lines you can now use your pinch rod to make a grid on the floor
    I would never close a floor as suggested as if there is any slight variation in floor the difference would be seen right in the door where you walk in .

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  23. #17
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    Don't lay from the centre, get yourself a gauging stick and work back from the centre line to the furthest wall then start your tiling from there
    "Experience is simply the name we give our mistakes"

  24. #18
    Regular TilersForums Contributor aqua blue's Avatar
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    "this is very confusing advice and not a good way to set out or tile a floor"

    I said a dry run with spacers because he was a beginner. Pythagoras triangle? lol

    Now that's confusing. No offense bro! Each to there own.

  25. #19
    doug boardley
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    a 3,4,5 or even 5,12,13 triangle is basic Pythogoras aqua, not at all confusing and a very basic way of making sure your tiles will be running square.

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  27. #20
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    Thanks doug, but how about for a beginner you start from the most prominent wall and work out from there. If the floor is planned out well- all edge tiles will be of maximum size, thus if the room is off square it will hardly notice.

    That's the simplest way for a beginner methinks. Hope that one helped daz.

  28. #21
    doug boardley
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    I'm telling Daz about how I learned, yes I was a beginner once too, albeit nearly 30 years ago

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    doug boardley
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    Default Re: tiling floor


  31. #23
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    Daz, if you decide to do that just double check the main wall is square with the door wall. If you do an L shaped dry run it will be obvious.

  32. #24
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    Enjoy the math lesson daz! All the best!

  33. #25
    Regular TilersForums Contributor aqua blue's Avatar
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    “Friends are as companions on a journey, who ought to aid each other to persevere in the road to a happier life.”Pythagoras

  34. #26
    New TilersForums Contributor daz1968's Avatar
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    Quote Originally Posted by aqua blue View Post
    “Friends are as companions on a journey, who ought to aid each other to persevere in the road to a happier life.”Pythagoras
    i have a builders square so i will be okay with the pythagoros bit, but why can i not once squared the room work from the centre out to the wall

  35. #27
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    If your tiles are plain and it's a straight forward set, working from a far wall will give you more working room and lessen the chance of tile movement/contact whilst your'e installing.

  36. #28
    doug boardley
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    Default Re: tiling floor

    if you do it in grids ,or quarters Daz, all it takes is oone joint to be slightly out of sync and the following tile joints will either bird mouth or tighten up. If you go in straight full courses including cuts, you minimise the chances of this happening

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    Default Re: tiling floor

    Quote Originally Posted by doug boardley View Post
    if you do it in grids ,or quarters Daz, all it takes is oone joint to be slightly out of sync and the following tile joints will either bird mouth or tighten up. If you go in straight full courses including cuts, you minimise the chances of this happening

    good advice Doug, similar to what I said, take the help offered daz, its all relevant to helping you. No one is going to say things that you want to hear mate.
    We stick to the rules here matey.

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    Default Re: tiling floor

    [QUOTE=doug boardley;313844]if you do it in grids ,or quarters Daz, all it takes is oone joint to be slightly out of sync and the following tile joints will either bird mouth or tighten up. If you go in straight full courses including cuts, you minimise the chances of this happening[/Qdo you leave spacers in between tiles or remove them, also i would love someone to email me a drawing of positioning tiles correctly for floor sw012h4601@blueyonder.co.ukUOTE]

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