whats your thoughts on this ,i have a 45m sq floor to do in trav ,the wood flooring in the adjoining hall is 30mm higher than the newly laid concrete floor ,the customer seems to think i can build up the difference so the 12 mm trav tile will be level with the wood flooring with self leveller ,i'm not totally confident it should be done with s-leveller or even if it can be ,what do you's think

There are SLCs that will go upto 30mm or more. Mapei FibrePlan or LatexPlan will go upto 10mm. Which leaves you 8mm for adhesive (Obviously you would need a larger trowel than 8mm to allow you to press the tiles into the addy)

there are slc's that you can use to make up the shortfall, not sure which ones they are at the mo! (having a senior and blond moment!)

When you say newly laid floor...HOW new.?

the concrete's benn down for a couple of months now ,nice and flat aswell

I wonder why it was left that low to the hall floor..?.

Will cost a pretty packet to level 45mtrs at 15mm allowing for stone thickness as well..

what about an insulation board..? to build it up.

Tile it twice

Then bill her twice

As per Dave,

Use a thermo board to build it out, better and cheaper than slc IMO.

This seems like a good job to wet-set the stone, you can earn the money setting the tile rather than spending it on a fortune's worth of SLC. Some sand and portland will be cheap and you can set this stone and get it perfectly flush with the wood.

Rob Z - That would make your wet set screed only 18mm thick!

IMO that's too thin.

You could of course with a floor of 45sq mts, and depending where the two floor finishes join, raise the travertine floor up to the wood finished floor level on an incline.
This should be discussed with the client at the estimate stage so your costings for all methods are covered.

John.

is there any under floor heating involved cct?

Hi John

If this installation were over a wood subfloor, then I would agree. But this is over a slab, so deflection isn't an issue. With a bond coat on the slab and on the underside of the stone, and with the coarser mix troweled out ~3/4" thick, I see no problem setting the stone with this method.

What are your concerns?

Edited to add.....I agree, if the customer would agree to the stone being slightly higher than the adjacent wood floor, then I would float a bonded ~ 1" mud bed over the slab , let it cure, and then set the stone with a medium bed setting material.

the reason I ask is that Rob Z put a very valid point forward (imo) although ufh would complicate this

Thanks for all your replies and ideas ,but think i'm goin to go with a backer board (12mm) that way i'll get a nice level surface to go at and it'll make the job quicker ,oh another thing has any one see step trims that are radius'd

Originally Posted by cct

Thanks for all your replies and ideas ,but think i'm goin to go with a backer board (12mm) that way i'll get a nice level surface to go at and it'll make the job quicker ,oh another thing has any one see step trims that are radius'd

Just out of curiosity, which backer board? I know the Aquapanel 12.5mm are not suitable for floors. Not sure about Hardi

Thanks for all your replies and ideas ,but think i'm goin to go with a backer board (12mm) that way i'll get a nice level surface to go at and it'll make the job quicker ,oh another thing has any one see step trims that are radius'd