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slc in the
Tile Adhesive, Grout and Substrate Preparation at TilersForums;
hi guys,
when using a slc what is the process as regards to the kick panels on the bottom of the cupboards?Do you go straight ahead and just pour onto ... -
Healthy TilersForums Contributor
slc
hi guys,
when using a slc what is the process as regards to the kick panels on the bottom of the cupboards?Do you go straight ahead and just pour onto the floor,spread it out up to the boards?
Or,do you remove these and pour under the cupboard.Its not a job im doing just a general question.Many thanks all input appreciated.
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Re: slc
I take it you mean in a kitchen?
Remove the boards for sure and then you can put some baton behind the legs to stop the slc from going too far, lay the tiles so they just go under the units then replace the kickerboard (which you may have to cut down to fit)
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The Following User Says Thank You to Colour Republic For This Useful Post:
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Re: slc
remove the kick boards and if possible screw the legs back up so the tiles can slide underneath them!
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to david campbell For This Useful Post:
brian c (25-03-2009), davey-j (26-03-2009)
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Re: slc

Originally Posted by
david campbell
remove the kick boards and if possible screw the legs back up so the tiles can slide underneath them!
How would you go about doing this?
screw them up so every other tile slides under, wait for the addy to go off, lower legs then screw the other legs up and do the same?
if you screwed up all the front legs at the same time it would twist the carcass slightly (even more so if the worktops are fitted) and put pressure on the fixings to the wall. even if you managed to level them up again, if the units have moved at all, the doors would need adjusting to suit again.
not saying you're wrong, just wondered how you would do it?
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Re: slc
Done it loads of times, never had a problem
"Experience is simply the name we give our mistakes"
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Re: slc

Originally Posted by
whitebeam
Done it loads of times, never had a problem
what lifted the front legs all at the same time?
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Re: slc
No, just the ones that were needed lifting
"Experience is simply the name we give our mistakes"
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Re: slc
you can get a piece of plastic the same size as the leg base and hold it tight againstlegs and pour...this way the slc doesnt touch the legs.(coffe jar lids etc.)
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to brian c For This Useful Post:
Colour Republic (25-03-2009), davey-j (26-03-2009)
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Re: slc

Originally Posted by
whitebeam
No, just the ones that were needed lifting
so are you saying you lift the legs,then lower them again straight away?
If i'm laying engineered or laminate then I lift the a few legs fit and lower before I move on to the next, the carcass won't move because it should be fixed to it's neighbour (well it is if i've installed the kitchen) so it isn't put under much stress. But I've never tried it when tiling because i wouldn't what to lower it back onto the tile before the addy has set.
sorry guys just trying to see how you do it. and what is the benefit of going further under the unit. I do it with wooden floors just because it is quicker and requires less cutting
Last edited by Colour Republic; 25-03-2009 at 11:42 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Colour Republic For This Useful Post:
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Re: slc

Originally Posted by
Colour Republic
How would you go about doing this?
screw them up so every other tile slides under, wait for the addy to go off, lower legs then screw the other legs up and do the same?
if you screwed up all the front legs at the same time it would twist the carcass slightly (even more so if the worktops are fitted) and put pressure on the fixings to the wall. even if you managed to level them up again, if the units have moved at all, the doors would need adjusting to suit again.
not saying you're wrong, just wondered how you would do it?
only talking about raising the front legs!
usually plastic,and can be twisted so they can raise up,only raised for about 3-4hrs so can't see the units or worktops twisting in such a space of time,this also helps with the speed you can tile,your cuts can be slighltly rougher and in the end there is no difference to the units apart from how quick the tiling can be completed!
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Re: slc

Originally Posted by
david campbell
only talking about raising the front legs!
usually plastic,and can be twisted so they can raise up,only raised for about 3-4hrs so can't see the units or worktops twisting in such a space of time,this also helps with the speed you can tile,your cuts can be slighltly rougher and in the end there is no difference to the units apart from how quick the tiling can be completed!
Sorry David, I wouldn't want you doing that on a kitchen I’ve just fitted. Most of my work is complete interior refurbishment and I'm a Pro Kitchen and Bathroom Fitter (I fit about 10 of each a year) but would only consider myself a semi-pro tiler as it's not my main line of work even though I’ve been doing it for around 10 years. In fact I don't always tile my own jobs (about 50/50) depends on time and what my tiler is up to! The problem with lifting all the front legs at the same time is that the back legs can slip (only has to be 1 or 2mm) and the carcass can twist (not warp - twist) the secret to good kitchen fitting is to make sure your carcases are perfectly square. This means they don't always sit on the back wall completely (if that is not perfectly level) and because of this if you raise more than a couple of legs at a time the unit can twist and throw it out of square. It won't be a huge difference but enough for me to be mad
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The Following User Says Thank You to Colour Republic For This Useful Post:
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Healthy TilersForums Contributor
Re: slc
cheers for all the replies guys,sorry to start a debate lol.Get the general jist of it all so thanks again
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