is it necessary to put up a timber frame when boarding out a wall with plasterboard or is dot and dabbing strong enough to hold small ceramic tiles?
Doing a job at the mo where the tiles i took off have took all the plaster off too and am down to the brickwork so wondered what the best method would be.Thanks for any advice.Also when would be best to use a timber frame? would this be when using heavier and larger tiles?

As far as i am aware dot and dabbing new board will be ok, also it will help to get a true/square wall if it runs out at present. you can timber fix board and you could also get someone to put a scratch coat on to fix tiles straight to.someone will correct me if i am wrong,
hope this helps.
Gary

Dot and dab would be the method I would go for and the plasterboard would take 32kg m2, so with ceramics should'nt be over loaded

dot and dabbing the plasterboard for me too in this instance

Originally Posted by Gazebo

you could also get someone to put a scratch coat on to fix tiles straight to.someone will correct me if i am wrong,
hope this helps.
Gary

Plasterboard is a better substrate to fix to when left without a skim, just use an appropriate primer dependant on addy and tiles.

Thanks for all the replies guys.The mother decided to take tiles off and now there isn't even any plaster left on the walls,were down to the brickwork so chose to just re-baard the lot rather than get a plasterer in.
Is plasterboard suitable for a shower area or would you use something like wedi?

can use plaster board if a tanking kit is used, or marine ply. Best option would be some Wedi, Aqua panel or similar.

tanking will be fine mate

I would be wary about dot and dabbing tileboard, only because it is heavy.

Originally Posted by cornish_crofter

I would be wary about dot and dabbing tileboard, only because it is heavy.

British Gypsom advise against tiling plasterboard that has been dot and dabbed without any other mechanical fixings

Never heard that before simhopper but does make sence if using the heavier tiles

Dot'n'Dab should be fine aslong as the brickwork is not dusty when sticking boards on.
If previously plastered (as oppposed to boarded) I always brush the brickwork first with a stiff bristle brush (hand or bass broom depending on area), then if still dusty and porous (blockwork) pva the surfaces.
If not too bad I damp the wall surface with water from a garden spray bottle before sticking boards.
Don't saturate the wall, just a light spray to dampen down slightly.

Never had a problem call back in 5 years doing it this way, some might say it's a bit overkill but the job needs to stay in place!!!!

If you go down the batten route, make sure the battens are in-line and plumb with wedges between brickwork and timber.

good advice frosty , similar here have always pva the walls first b4 dabing and never had any comebacks.

Never used pva before dot and dabbing, just dampened wall

Originally Posted by simhopper

British Gypsom advise against tiling plasterboard that has been dot and dabbed without any other mechanical fixings

never heard that either apart from if it's over 2.4m when you use m/f

Mixed opinions then? I gather the majority would say it will be ok to just dot and dab and tile straight after priming onto plasterboard when using small ceramics, and a board like aquapanel or wedi for the shower area will suffice?
Would the aquapanel or wedi have to be tanked or is this ok to just tile straight onto.Thanks for all the replies guys!!!!!!!!

Would be better to dot and Dab along with mechanical fixing if using plaster board in shower area will need tanking or better to use tile backer type board

dot and dabbing plasterboard is absolutley fine for ceramics tiles just dont skim over as mentioned