three quarters of a wall later packing out taken a day. i am using a 10mm trowel and then a 10mm trowel on the back of the tile aswell. is this correct. should i only be trowelling the wall (ribs) and buttering the backs or am i doing it correct. i am using mapei bagged which can be used upto 15mm so i know i am doing something right. they dont teach you any of this on the 4 week tiling courses
thanks in advance
ian

would it not have been easier and quicker plastering the walls with rapid set!

how do you go about doing it flat enough. the tiles are large format and wobble really bad with the slightest variation

HI there.

in tiling you will only make some money if you can work things in a normal way. like David said plastering the wall with rapid set first, thats normal then you do your normal tiling. easy money

good luck Al

check the void/discrepancies on your wall mate using a feather edge or baton.....mark them and rapid set those areas them re flush it off using your edge/or baton and smooth over

I've often wondered about the added weight with packing out, and, we know 20kg per m2 is the limit for skimmed p/board, why is it ok to skim with addy? I'm assuming it's 'cos addy has a better cohesive strength to p/board, but am quite happy to be informed otherwise

you could always use builders fastset on the low spots to pack out...a lot cheaper.

Originally Posted by connors12345

three quarters of a wall later packing out taken a day. i am using a 10mm trowel and then a 10mm trowel on the back of the tile aswell. is this correct. should i only be trowelling the wall (ribs) and buttering the backs or am i doing it correct. i am using mapei bagged which can be used upto 15mm so i know i am doing something right. they dont teach you any of this on the 4 week tiling courses
thanks in advance
ian

not an ideal scenario connors, but done it myself with no adverse comebacks that I'm aware of. I make sure i give the tiles a good twisting to ensure max contact tho' and a tap with rubber mallet to make sure!

Have screeded wall with rapid set many a time.

Was there not an option for dot and dabbing plasterboard over whole bad wall ?
Is a good option if wall / room will allow it !

I've used fast setting mortar mix before now, but fast setting spf is a lot cheaper (profix), especially if you've got a bit left in the bucket, you've finished the floor and have some low points in the walls.

A few of my earlier jobs were plagued by this but as has been said, a bit of forethought can go a long way, and make the job much easier.

A common mistake is assuming all the timbers are in line whilst dry lining. I packed out about 3mm whilst putting up some aquapanel to get the surface dead flat for a shower cubicle, just using some gripfill. Let it set then screw in.

Originally Posted by connors12345

three quarters of a wall later packing out taken a day. i am using a 10mm trowel and then a 10mm trowel on the back of the tile aswell. is this correct. should i only be trowelling the wall (ribs) and buttering the backs or am i doing it correct. i am using mapei bagged which can be used upto 15mm so i know i am doing something right. they dont teach you any of this on the 4 week tiling courses
thanks in advance
ian

Learn from this ......................
Perhaps if you had noticed this when you went to quote the job you could have persuaded them to get the wall plastered prior to start. Or at least allowed a bit extra on the price. I always take long spirit level with me to quotes and check walls and floors, then show customer and explain if there is a problem.

Originally Posted by Leatherface

Learn from this ......................
Perhaps if you had noticed this when you went to quote the job you could have persuaded them to get the wall plastered prior to start. Or at least allowed a bit extra on the price. I always take long spirit level with me to quotes and check walls and floors, then show customer and explain if there is a problem.

what if you're using heavy porc though? by plastering out i'm assuming you mean skimming Nick. Coming from a plastering background myself,I know that a lot of plasterers just follow the contours of the wall, but these guys are "spreads" not plasterers! So guess what I'm saying is that if we want it doing right we have to do it ourselves!

oug .with the porcelain you will have weight issues so why not just board out with backer and then everyone is happy apart from the customer who is the paymaster.

Originally Posted by doug boardley

what if you're using heavy porc though? by plastering out i'm assuming you mean skimming Nick. Coming from a plastering background myself,I know that a lot of plasterers just follow the contours of the wall, but these guys are "spreads" not plasterers! So guess what I'm saying is that if we want it doing right we have to do it ourselves!

I mean plastering out by a good plasterer. I use 2 plasterers who know exactly what I require. They can get the walls to level to a few mm.
Would rather give them the work, they pass my name on when their customers need a tiler. As far as heavy porcelain that needs to be assessed regardless. Most walls that are badly uneven are plaster anyway, so if you plaster over them it is still a plaster wall.

Originally Posted by Leatherface

I mean plastering out by a good plasterer. I use 2 plasterers who know exactly what I require. They can get the walls to level to a few mm.
Would rather give them the work, they pass my name on when their customers need a tiler. As far as heavy porcelain that needs to be assessed regardless. Most walls that are badly uneven are plaster anyway, so if you plaster over them it is still a plaster wall.

can you get the customer to get these guys prior to you tiling?
been doing a lot of high spec site work this year, put my feather edge diagonally across a wall today and could get fingers through upto knuckles in the bow! this was a new stud wall. Think a live snake was used as a straight edge!

Originally Posted by Leatherface

Learn from this ......................
Perhaps if you had noticed this when you went to quote the job you could have persuaded them to get the wall plastered prior to start. Or at least allowed a bit extra on the price. I always take long spirit level with me to quotes and check walls and floors, then show customer and explain if there is a problem.

it should be your only way to quote a job well done

Al

Originally Posted by doug boardley

can you get the customer to get these guys prior to you tiling?
been doing a lot of high spec site work this year, put my feather edge diagonally across a wall today and could get fingers through upto knuckles in the bow! this was a new stud wall. Think a live snake was used as a straight edge!

Usually if required, they always try and fit me in.
I agree stud walls are different, am on a job now, sixteen new apartments. Some of the stud work there is terrible, That's the standard of work you get on price work when the contractor screws everyone down on price. Guys just want to get in, rush through job to make a wage. They don't care.
Did prev mention that dot and dab boards would be an option if possible

shouldn't ave to though should you! Been thinkinking myself lately, espescially since been using 1000mm long tiles, to get 'em straight gonna have to d&d plasterboard on top of stud fixed plasterboard!ffs1