help with installing plasterboard around bath - TilersForums.co.uk | Tile Forums

lendini · 01-04-2008

hi all.if i take off old tiles around bath area and find that the old substrate ie plasterboard is totally wrecked by the process what are my options.I have read on dot and dab a new peice of plasterboard or backer board on.i suppose this is over the old plasterboard with it all still in place do i need to prime.Also is it possible to screw it instead of dot and dab if i locate the studs.

Next question is once i have added the plasterboard on plasterboard the wall will become thicker and now i have the problem that the bottom of the wall where it meets the bath edge is now going to overlap quite a bit,would i then be forced to shift bath over a little.

last question if the plasterboard on plasterboard stops halfway along a wall there would be a noticeable thickness on show.how do you guys overcome this.Thicker tile trim etc.All help appreciated and thanks in advance

**pjc** · 02-04-2008

cut the old plasterboard out and replace it with new and screw cheap quick and easy :Pete

**Fekin** · 02-04-2008

Yeah, just rip out the old plasterboard and redo, no thickness difference then.

lendini · 02-04-2008

thanks guys.could i therefore end up taking all the walls down in a room if the walls were shot.would scare me and the customer he he.i am ok with diy but was not shown how to pull down walls and replace with new on my 3 week course at uktiling 9fantastic course good laugh).do i need to tape joints,stagger boards,can i use nails or screws.i guess i do not have to prime unless dusty boards.

another question is the dot and dab method only used really to stick board i.e ply,backer,plasterboard to brick walls.

what can you get away with on wall surfaces to get a good finish.An ok finish is not good enough for me and my customers.

with toilet and sink out and no walls customers going to cry and i could be there for weeks sipping tea and thinking is that window big enough for me to escape through instead of looking at it as my focal point.

I am going to be doing proffessional tiling in the next few months and run along my existing business.so trying to look at all scenarios.

**grumpygrouter** · 02-04-2008

Tearing down plasterboard and replacing is really quite easy Lendini. I did it for the first time just before christmas. It is just a case of ripping everything out, removing old nails/screws, making sure your studs are in line and then screwing the new boards into place.

I filled the gaps in the board with adhesive as I was tiling over the top but if the boards are going to be painted they need to be taped properly. If you are cutting a piece out because of damage, you will need to put in dwangs between the studs so that the edges of the plasterboard insert can be supported and screw down.

The beauty of replacing is that you have a nice new flat surface to tile onto!

Grumpy

lendini · 02-04-2008

I filled the gaps in the board with adhesive as I was tiling over the top but if the boards are going to be painted they need to be taped properly. If you are cutting a piece out because of damage, you will need to put in dwangs between the studs so that the edges of the plasterboard insert can be supported and screw down.

The beauty of replacing is that you have a nice new flat surface to tile onto!

Grumpy[/quote]

Hi grumpy thank you for shedding on this . if you are tiling half way upas stated obviuosly you need to tape or could you leave this for a plasterer to do i.e continue from the top of your tiles with tape.will you have to set tape in adhesive or just to plasterboard.

what are dwangs mate could you explain the method clearly for me as i know doubt will end up with this at some stage.

please reply to this one as well he he. Would you replace the board all the way down back of bath or cut out the section above and replace.If on an outside wall i.e with breize block under plasterboard you would i suppose dot and dab or use masonary nails.

Thanks grumpy in advance.Newb tiler bet you hate em with same questions

**grumpygrouter** · 02-04-2008

Hi Lendini, dwangs are just cross pieces of wood between the studs running horizontally. You would need to put these in to screw your free edge of your plaster board to. Bit hard to explain how to do it but if you are working across more than 1 set of studs, you would need to stagger the dwangs a little to be able to nail them in.

The builders on here would prbably be able to explain better.

If you want to reboard behind the bath, you would need to remove it first.

If you need to have the boards taped, you may as well have them taped first before tiling. The stuff they use needs to be fully dry first before you tile over it though! To board on a block wall you would dot n dab.

Don't worry about the questions, that is what the forum is all about.

Grumpy

Turkish · 02-04-2008

Hi Lendini,

I`m a newb like yourself but don`t ever be afraid to ask questions. As Grumpy says that`s what this forum is for and you`ll find really friendly, good advice on here along with the odd bit off p**s taking but all in good heart!

Turkish

Northern Bird · 02-04-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by lendini

thanks guys.could i therefore end up taking all the walls down in a room if the walls were shot.would scare me and the customer he he.i am ok with diy but was not shown how to pull down walls and replace with new on my 3 week course at uktiling 9fantastic course good laugh).do i need to tape joints,stagger boards,can i use nails or screws.i guess i do not have to prime unless dusty boards.

another question is the dot and dab method only used really to stick board i.e ply,backer,plasterboard to brick walls.

what can you get away with on wall surfaces to get a good finish.An ok finish is not good enough for me and my customers.

with toilet and sink out and no walls customers going to cry and i could be there for weeks sipping tea and thinking is that window big enough for me to escape through instead of looking at it as my focal point.

I am going to be doing proffessional tiling in the next few months and run along my existing business.so trying to look at all scenarios.

I would put studs in, it gives more strength to tile on to. Some housebuilders are now putting their centre at 200 to stop bowing or movement of plasterboard.

With backerboards it recommends fixing mechanical fix. You wont need to put studs in if you have a flat wall behind maybe some rawplaugs and fixing at 400/600 centres!