Bit of a disaster..

[sigur]

Hello folks, Im new here so go easy on me..


I have had a bit of a disaster whilst tiling the kitchen.

I noticed the tiles around one of the socket boxes were cut and wanted to get a clean look by having the tiles under the socket. So off I trot and start drilling holes in the guilty tiles, so far so good.
I then start trying to knock the tiles off using a hammer and chisel with not much luck. The plasterboard to which the tiles were affixed started coming off in smallish chunks and Im now left with a 1ft square hole in the wall.

The hole begins at worktop level and dead centre is where the socket should go. To the left of the hole there is a vertical wooden strut around 50mm-100mm away, to the right there is unit that encompasses the oven etc around 10mm away (the vertical strut is behind the oven around dead centre)

I was considering placing a fresh piece of plaster board in there. However I think Im going to struggle to get some wood behind to give me a good base.
I really need to do something/get someone in that will give a firm base to allow the re-tiling and support the electrical socket.



I wish I hadn't been so bloody anal and left it how it was

Anyone have any ideas, tips or advice.

Failing that, can anyone point me in the direction of tradesman who could solve it in the Aberdeen area.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Turkish]

Ok, cut a small length of timber longer than the hole is vertically, screw a screw into it put the timber through the hole and place vertically so that the ends of the timber are now behind the plasterboard by enough distance to then screw through the plasterboard and into the timber. (Get me so far?) then you can screw a new piece of plasterboard onto this newly formed batten and the one that is 50mm away (which you will have to cut the hole out to)

Hope you understand that, i`m crap at explaining things like that

Turkish

[sigur]

Thanks very much for the advice Turkish.

So basically I need to cut out horizontally as far as the batten to the left and install a batten in the middle of the current hole ?

My only worry is that as Im removing tiles chunks of plaster are coming off, so Im not getting a solid surface to screw through. For the left this wont be a problem as there is a batten there but the newly installed batten could be a nightmare.

[CJ again]

Can you not cut back to joists either side..........screw new plasterboad in.......retile

[sigur]

The joist on the right is behind a cabinet which holds the oven etc.

[CJ again]

PATCHING LARGE HOLES IN WALLBOARD




Larger holes in wallboard require some type of supporting brace for the patch.
Use a short piece of 2 x 4 cut to the proper length as a supporting brace for patching a large hole in plasterboard (Fig. 14).
Cut two pieces of 2 x 4 to a length about 8" longer than the distance across the hole.
Apply a good grade of cement to one piece of 2 x 4, then insert it through the hole. Tie it to another piece of 2 x 4 holding it parallel in front of the wallboard.
Allow the pieces of 2 x 4 to remain tied in this position until the cement dries. Most cements require about one hour to dry.
Next, remove the supporting piece of 2 x 4 in front of the wallboard by untying the string (Fig. 15). The cement will hold the back piece of 2 x 4 firmly in position, providing a support brace for the wall patch.
Now cut a patch block to the exact dimensions of the sawed-out area. (Fig. 16). The block will be slightly smaller than the hole itself, but cut it to fit as tightly as possible.
Apply cement to the back of the patch block and the support brace, then put the patch into position in the hole.
Use a firm putty knife or patching spatula to apply joint compound all around the patch board (Fig. 17).
Work the patch compound thoroughly into all cracks. Scrape away any surplus material, then allow the patched area to dry completely.
When the area has completely dried, use a regular sanding block and a piece of fine sandpaper to sand away any high areas on the patched surface (Fig. 18).
A prime coat can now be applied to prepare the wall for painting.

[CJ again]

Or

[Dave]

Excellent ..cheers CJ....

[sWe]

Yupp, that's how to do it.

[sigur]

I had a look at that vid on youtube but screwing in the wood was a problem. Using an adhesive as in the diagram above could well work though.