Power shower and grout - TilersForums.co.uk | Tile Forums

steve_c · 19-05-2008

Hi all,
I'm doing my first job with a power shower / p shaped bath and wondered if the polimer modified grouts such as mapei ultra colour + would be ok to use with a tile that is grooved on its face ( so looks like small mosaics when grouted in)

I'm also considering using the tanking paint for extra protection to the background (render/gypsum board) but unsure what I need to do at the wall/bath top and around the pipes? Is it necesary to tank around a bath with a power shower or will a good polimer grout do the job?

Any help appreciated.

Steve

murf · 19-05-2008

steve, you should really use epoxy grout with power showers. Tanking is also a must.

**brian c** · 19-05-2008

yes tank it and use a small notch trowel for 100% coverage with those tiles.

**Dave** · 20-05-2008

Hi steve..........if you are using a tanking membrane or solution you do not need an epoxy grout....a flexible grout with suffice along with flexible adhesive( cement based )......using both is just a waste of money IMO....in domestic work anyway....of course commercial is different again....

faithhealer · 20-05-2008

Dave, why flexi addy and not tub stuff?
Thanks john

**Dave** · 20-05-2008

If you are tanking the walls and thus making them inpervious to mositure then a flexible cement addy is the way to go for fast track tiling....and very few dispersion adhesives are suitable to use over tanking membranes or solution kits...as they need imperfections in the substrate to key too.....that is why you have to slightly rough up shiny plaster/paint etc....

And also a cement based adhesive will with stand any water ingression and some "not all" dispersion adhesives will just break down..........

p.s. this is a power shower by the way.....so take each job at face value....

faithhealer · 20-05-2008

Cheers Dave, another lesson learned

frogeye · 20-05-2008

Okay

that's me confused. I took advice on the products to use - Bal tanking kit -yes, Bal White - yes, Bal microban grout - yes and Bal white micro sealant. Okay the bathroom from Bal.
I read the blurb on the Bal site and everything I used was fine and dandy - then I read

'and very few dispersion adhesives are suitable to use over tanking membranes or solution kits...'

I wish someone had told me that.

Or have I got hold of the wrong end of the staff?

a confused frogeye

**dock** · 20-05-2008

Faithhealer

Tanking the shower will provide a "second line of defence" against water ingress and Mapegum WPS with Mapeband tape at internal vertical corners and junction of walls and floor will do this.

It is generally recommended that cement based adhesives such as Keraflex or Adesilex P9 are used on top of the tanking system because they set hydraulically. If ready mixed adhesives are used they dry by initially losing moisture into the tile and the background but the background is now impervious so this significantly slows down the drying rate. In certain cases the adhesive could take a fortnight to dry properly and if grouted over it may take longer.

In a power shower murf is quite right, an epoxy resin based grout such as Kerapoxy (26 colours) should be used. This grout will have more abrasion resistance hence durability in this type of installation and additionally present a "first line" of defence against water ingress.

dock

**grumpygrouter** · 20-05-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by frogeye

Okay

that's me confused. I took advice on the products to use - Bal tanking kit -yes, Bal White - yes, Bal microban grout - yes and Bal white micro sealant. Okay the bathroom from Bal.
I read the blurb on the Bal site and everything I used was fine and dandy - then I read

'and very few dispersion adhesives are suitable to use over tanking membranes or solution kits...'

I wish someone had told me that.

Or have I got hold of the wrong end of the staff?

a confused frogeye

I assume that is supposed to be White Star Frogeye? If that is the case then it is fine to use over the BAL tanking kit, it will just take several days to dry properly unless you have very porous tiles and a large grout line. Once white star dries it is, in my experience, incredibly difficult to upset. It is highly flexible, and water resistant (doesn't break down easily) as you will probably have notice if you have allowe it to dry on the surface of your tiles! Real pain to get it off your hands too.

As long as you have allowed it to dry fully before grouting, I think you will be OK.

But yes, most tubbed stuff isn't really suitable for putting over a waterproof membrane as far as I am aware.

frogeye · 20-05-2008

Cheers Grumpy
I thought I had read a little too much into Dave's comments as I had done my research and asked those very same questions on here.

Yes I do mean White star - but I can't help but think of the Titanic when I put that, with all the implications of a sinking ship etc.

Yes I let it dry for a good time, pure laziness to be honest, as I was in no rush.

About to do my final act as frog tiling and grout - been 2 weeks since I did shower enclosure - I used Bal white star again even though it was on the verge of large format - but the thought of mixing the powder and all that dust put me off bagged. Little did I know it was also the dust from cut tiles that was a problem in a confined place -

I have bought some seal guard for my bathroom and was going to use on the shower enclosure at the other place after grouting with bal microban - will this be okay? Its only a puny shower - or should I use an epoxy based grout?

frogeye

**grumpygrouter** · 20-05-2008

Hi Frogeye, you won't need to use epoxy grout, you have tanked the shower area so that will be sufficient. Seal guard won't hurt but it may not be neccessary either as long as you have adequate ventilation.