Discuss Tuff Form in the Tanking and Wetrooms Forum area at TilersForums. The USA and UK Tiling Forum (Also now Aus, Canada, ROI, and more)

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No they wouldn't recommend anything to fix down to the former as its something they've never worked with. And Akw only recommended using a paint on system which I wasnt really up for
 
O

Old Mod

Well knowing the members that have made the recommendations above as I do, I would be completely happy using any of their methods.
Well I'm the same as Schluter, not done it before.
However, I do know how good Kerdi Coll is, used it many times.
So I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
If u go that route, do not mix it until u are 100% ready, keep the room temp down as much as possible, and don't hang about! :)
If you're uneasy about using it, just mix in smaller batches to the correct ratio. Better done in one hit tho.
 
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It was looking through old posts from a user called dhtiling. But I see he's no longer active. Do you think combining the Eco primgrip as apparently it's good for hard to adhere to surfaces (has small grit particles or something I it) and an adhesive like keraflex with latex added will still work then?
 
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Good stuff, I just want to make sure I get this right, wish I hadjust got the schulter shower tray but I thought the akw tray looked more robust. Thanks for the help lads
 
O

One Day

I'd be happy with a sanded tray, eco prim grip and a 2 part adhesive. the kerdi-coll is waterproof once set, where a normal cement adhesive isn't and could allow water through under capillary action. Schluter won't warrant it on grp as its not part of their system. If they made grp trays they would though!
Another waterproof alternative would be kerdi-fix or wedi 610 (tube adhesives). The stuff is used to bond submarines together. Suitable for your seams but not for bonding kerdi to the tray really. Again, it would not be warranted...
 
O

One Day

You'll need a waterproof adhesive to bond the Ditra to the kerdi or keba. Both are inherently waterproof but the joints are always the potential weak spots.
 

Dave

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You can adhere with adhesive to walls and floors imho and as above , it's the joints that allow capillary action and not the sheet Membrane it's self.

Eco-prim grip and spf (min s1) and for peace of mind kerdicol the joint tapes.

But remember it takes quite a bit of submersion
in water for capillary ingression , occasionally wetting won't.
 
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Ok so Eco prim grip the former, I've three adhesives I'm looking at using keraflex maxi,
Keraquick with latex addy and elastorapid I belive from reading that the elastorapid is an s2 the keraquick becomes an s2 because I'm using the latex instead of water and the maxi is an s1....do you guys have a preferred one of these?

I know the kerdi Coll is for sealing the seams, wall to floor transitions and from the former to ditra transitions.

On a side note the rest of the subfloor is 18mm wbp ply on top of 100 year old floor boards that have had the hell screwed out of them. They seemed in great nick, only the ones altered from previous plumbing endeavours eg. Central heating needed any real work done. Anyway to the point schulter uk recommend ardex200 to bond the ditra to the ply has anyone hear used it/rate it over a cementitious adhesive?
 

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