Discuss Removing old adhesive in the DIY Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.co.uk.

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  1. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Hi everyone,

    After a bit of advice (isn't everyone).

    We need to completely overhaul our upstairs ensuite bathroom.

    I've managed to remove all of the tiles and the old shower and enclosure.

    What's left is the adhesive on the flooring. It just doesn't want to come up (as can be seen from the pics).

    What are my options to get this in a fit state to begin tiling?

    A friend who is a builder mentioned putting down 6mm hardiebacker? If I were to do this, do I have to put some form of adhesive down to level the existing floor and to attach the hardiebacker to?

    Is the above the best option, or are there others?

    Thanks in advance for all replies.

    IMG_2065.JPG IMG_2066.JPG
     
  2. Plan Tec Tiling

    Plan Tec Tiling Administrator Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner

    Location:
    Wimborne, Dorset
    Use a 4" blade scraper and it will come up
     
  3. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Thanks for the reply.

    So far I've tried an sds chisel bit, hammer and bolster, wood chisel and finally a screwdriver.

    Whilst I was having some success with the chisel and screwdriver, it still wasn't taking it all up, so I would have been left with an uneven floor?
     
  4. 3_fall

    3_fall Administrator. Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    SW London
    Close bathroom door, open windows, wet the floor, get an angle grinder and a grinding cup, and you'll have it done in 30mins. Messy but effective.

    If you think that's bad, look what I walked in to this morning after builder messed floor up.
    IMG_9134.JPG IMG_9137.JPG IMG_9138.JPG

    Now that's what you call a tough job to get adhesive up! Haha
     
    • Like Like x 5
  5. 3_fall

    3_fall Administrator. Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    SW London
    It happens to be 25m2 too! :(
     
  6. Plan Tec Tiling

    Plan Tec Tiling Administrator Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner

    Location:
    Wimborne, Dorset
    It shouldn't. Not if you scrape rather than hack at it
     
  7. pdc

    pdc Professional Tiler

    I'm surprised that failed with such good coverage:tearsofjoy:
    60754-1225b99c3bad2bbdb537465f7c5f22d1.jpg
     
    • Funny Funny x 2
  8. 3_fall

    3_fall Administrator. Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    SW London
    Not bad Paul hey mate! :):thumbsup:
     
  9. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Never used an angle grinder before, but I can borrow one off a mate.

    Can you recommend a grinder cup for the job?

    When you say wet the floor, how wet should it be?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  10. 3_fall

    3_fall Administrator. Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    SW London
    Something like this:

    Grinding cup

    I can not stress enough how messy this is, tape up gap around door, wear MASK, EYE PROTECTION & GLOVES!
    Go tentively at first to see how much pressure to use, you WILL tear up the ply if you're too heavy handed!

    If you've never used a grinder I'd suggest you give Geoff's idea above a go first, soak the adhesive with water and use a bladed scraper, not a paint scraper.

    Bladed scraper
     
  11. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Thanks for the prompt reply. I'll give the scraper a go first.

    Cheers.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Localtiler

    Localtiler Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    I would waste your time and effort scraping that off, it's chipboard so needs over boarding anyway. Check to make sure it's secure and not bouncing as those chip board floors often do. If it's ok, over board with hardi, use a suitable tile adhesive to stick it down, mix it thin ish, probably a 10mm trowel will easily sort out that then ofcourse screw it.

    @3_fall@3_fall any reason you can't just apply a thin layer of leveller ?
     
  13. Localtiler

    Localtiler Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
  14. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Thanks for the reply. I've tried the scraper, and it's not making much of a dent.

    Was about to go and purchase the grinding cup.

    When you mention a thin layer of leveller, can you expand? Do you mean apply a thin layer to the adhesive that is already there, and then tile on top of this? If so can you recommend a leveller?

    The boards are fine, with no bounce in them.
     
  15. Localtiler

    Localtiler Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    I was referring to 3_fall when i mentioned leveller, if you look at my photos, that is what I would do with your floor, stick the hardie straight over it with tile adhesive and a decent sized notch trowel
     
  16. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Again, thanks for the reply.

    Is there any benefit to boarding it compared to grinding away the current adhesive (apart from less mess, although boarding will be more expensive).

    If I board it, it will reduce the clearance available between the bedroom and the bathroom.

    Thanks for all replies.
     
  17. Localtiler

    Localtiler Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    You need to board it regardless, you should not tile onto chip board.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  18. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Thanks for the information. I'm slightly confused!!

    If I grind all of the adhesive away, won't it be back to its original state, as it was when it was 1st tiled, where they would have tiled onto the boards? Or is this now considered bad practice?

    Are you recommending that there is no point in removing the existing adhesive and I should just hardiebacker the whole floor (on top of new adhesive).

    For information, the house was built in 2005.
     
  19. Localtiler

    Localtiler Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    Some people do tile on to chip board but it's not advisable, nobody on here will advise it I don't think.
    That's what I would do, overboard with hardie over the floor as it is, no grinding. Just take any lumps or high bits off.
    What tiles are you using
     
  20. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Again thanks for the reply.

    Apologies for all of the questions, I'm not questioning your advice (as you're a professional and im a complete novice!), I really appreciate the fact that you're taking the time and patience to reply to me, I'm just trying to gain an understanding.

    I was under the assumption (possibly mistakenly) that it was either remove the existing adhesive and then tile onto the existing floor or hardiebacker the floor as it is.

    However you're saying that if I followed the advice given above about the scraper and grinder cup, I would still need to hardiebacker the floor, but your method will mean less work for me.

    We'll be using porcelain tiles (although the wife hasn't picked them yet).

    Is there an adhesive and trowel you can recommend for laying the hardiebacker onto?
     
    • Like Like x 1
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