Hi all,

I'm doing a wetroom and when knocking off the old tiles the plasterboard is in such poor repair, I've decided to remove it and replace with Knauf Aquapanels.

Three sides of the room are on stud walls, so that presents no problems, but one has the plasterboard dot and dabbed onto medium density blockwork, which is a pig to get off. Using an SDS hammer drill and a wide chisel, I've managed to chisel off most of the old adhesive, but now I'm not sure of the best way to re-attach to Aquapanels to the blockwork.

Two main questions :

1) Is it really necessary to use mechanical fixings as well as adhesive ?

2) What adhesive would you use to stick the panels back up to the wall ?


Duncan

According to the Knauf technical Q&A's you cant stick it.
Q. Can you stick Knauf Aquapanel to a wall?
No, Aquapanel must be fixed to a framework - consult Knauf Technical department or the Aquapanel brochure for more information
I recently used dukkaboard dot and dowel method, using a flexible cement based adhesive.
see there website for info
Good luck

As The hammer has posted, Knauf themselves say it is not to be stuck (like dot and dabbing plasterboard), but mechanically fixed directly to the block/brick work or, put battens on the block/ bricks and fix the panels to the battens.

use backer board at least its waterproof sounds better in your situation not cement board which isn't waterproof

Hmmm .... thanks for the replies. I bought quite a bit of Aquapanel for this job, at least I can use some of it on the stud walls where I pulled off the non-MR platerboard the original owner fitted.

I don't actully need the waterproofness in the specific area where I'm planning to dot and dab, but I guess if Knauf say you can't do it, there must be a reason.

So if I can't stick Aquapanel, how about Hardiebacker ? Can that be stuck with dry lining adhesive ?

Duncan

Don't use gypsum board adhesive...

Hi Whitebeam,

Thanks for the fast reply. Awsume you mean that Hardiebacker would be OK, but any specific suggestions on what would be alright to use for adhesive ?

Hardiebacker is also a cement board i dont use it in bathrooms

I have never fixed hardie to walls with adhesive http://www.jameshardie.co.uk/pdf/installation/Installation_HardieBacker500.pdf

Have'nt used these myself but maybe a better option Dry-lining insulation boards

FYI, I'm now trying to source some Wedi boards as they specifically show the method for sticking them to uneven blockwork with tile adhesive and dowels on their website.

Only issue is that they aren't easy to locate around here.

Thanks for all the replies


Duncan

Originally Posted by duncan_ellison

FYI, I'm now trying to source some Wedi boards as they specifically show the method for sticking them to uneven blockwork with tile adhesive and dowels on their website.

Only issue is that they aren't easy to locate around here.


Thanks for all the replies


Duncan

if you put your location someone may be able to help you
Backer boards, Marmox

OK, Thanks for the tip. Just done that. Location is Colne, Lancashire at the end of the M65.

BTW, just looked at the price of Wedi versus Marmox and decided to go down the Marmox route now but the local stockist only has 10mm and I'm not sure if I can get away with that for walls although the tiles are only light ceramics.

Duncan

hi duncan i beleive the forum sponsor phg wetrooms do marmox boards and they deliver

maybe worth a shout

are you putting ceramics on the wetroom floor as well?

If you already have the board then maybe just get some timber and add a frame to attach it to?

Kilty,

Porcelain tiles in the dry (ish) areas and marble mosaics in the actual wet areas.

The marble is going down onto bitumen tanking which extends out 1m from the shower then the porcelain onto fleece matting just to isolate it a bit from the chipboard floor.

Duncan

Sorry missed the post from muse2k8,

Won't work in this case, unfortunately. It's a wall with a window set into it and the studwork needed would be unworkable.

Duncan