Hi guys. Does anyone have any experience with these? I'm starting a bathroom tomorrow with a walk in shower - this is the pre formed shower tray. Its a plastic one which is different to all the other formers I have tiled in the past.
Any tips or opinions would be appreciated.
Regards.

Hi and welcome..

These are good trays..

They have fastening holes around the perimeter of the tray... make sure the joists are flat or the tray could flex..

Screw down tight once the drain is connected and then sand the tray lightly to get a good key for the adhesive.. I then use Dural WP and cover the whole tray.. easier than individually covering the fastening holes, make sure the membrane goes under the drain collar..

I add a few extra noggins as well...

thanks guys

Dave, is the Dura WP really needed? I have a tanking kit and was planning to tank the walls then tape the bottom where the wall meets the tray, then I was going to tile. Would you tank the actual former aswell? do you use a 2 part flexi or single part on the former? Thanks mate.

It isn't strictly needed, you can just tape along all the edges.. but IMO for the sake of about 1mtr etc of membrane then it is worth it to have 100% water tight installation..

Adhesive, then S1 is fine..

thank you!

Good day men. I have not logged into your site for quite some time and am researching in depth the AKW Tuff Form Former. I ordered a 36"x36" kit with the Mapei Mapegum WPS waterproofing (tanking) kit. These Former Kits are much more common in your parts so I decided to jump in and ask the UK crew some questions.

I have a few questions for you seasoned installers.

1). What grit sandpaper should I use to rough up the shower base? I was thinking 60-80 grit and sanding it with a wooden block. I was also wondering if I could hit it with a metal cup wheel (wire cup brush for the angel grinder) and then a quick sand with 80-100 grit sandpaper.

2). How tight do you set the screws into the perimeter Noggins (blocking)? The install sheet I have says not to over tighten and to open the holes up with a 1/4" bit first. I was wondering if by chance I should set the screws with a rubber washer and then drive them home???

3). If I want to use a product like Kerdi or Durval (sheet membrane) over top what is the best thin-set? An epoxy based one perhaps? I would think a scuff up or sand first again before going this route?

4). If I go with the included kit and roll and brush on the Mapegum WPS - how long before I flood test it? Mapei's spec's state the Mapegum WPS product dries over an absorbent material in 12-24 hours and 4-5 days for non-absorbent surfaces. I have mocked up a little test box to test this new material. Any one have a strong opinion one way or the other?



My 36"x36" AKW Tuff Form


Mapei's Mapegum WPS


Test Box

I have a load more pictures on this kit and my AKW drain here.

Thanks for any and all help men!

John Whipple
By Any Design Ltd.
North Vancouver
British Columbia, Canada

As I remember I used a 60 grit and gave a good roughing/sanding all over..the metal wheel may be a bit to much, not one I've tried though.

With the screws I would on go manufacturers recommendations, if you go with rubber washer it may allow a bit of movment.

Thin set/adhesive I used a single part flexible with dural WP sheeting, works for me..the mapei one I have not tried.

Off topic I know (sorry) but Ive bought the same tray - what waste/drain are you using?

I have the stainless steel drain.

Like this;





This is the AKW drain with a Sioux Chief clamping PVC drain to tie into a North America PTrap and 2" waste line.

The drain is nice and has a good degree of adjustment.

JW