Hi guys,

I am new to this forum, so please excuse me if I make any glaring errors.

I have been installing kitchens and bathrooms for the last 10 years but havealways avoided wet rooms.

I am workingfor my best mate who had a dormer conversion to his bungalow over 3 years ago.I am also trying to keep costs down as he is close to his witts end with thisproject, not to mention his poor wife and they have twins on the way!!

To cut a longstory short, the first lot of builders went bust half way through the job, thesecond lot ran back to an east European country with the money and the thirdlot flatly refused to do anything about the bathroom.

The room is nowcomplete, it is approx 2.4M * 3.5M, an L shape .

Most of theequipment req’d is on site having been sourced by the builders.

As it stands,the floor has been leveled with a Self Levelling Compound and has a UFH cableembedded in it, from the edges, it looks like the sub floof was WBP Ply andChipboard with a 6mm Hardibacker on top.(the original chip floor was removed insome areas and replaced with WBP as the first lot of chippies got the joistheights wrong, the second lot shimmed and added noggins which was passed by thebuilding inspector)

This isfinished flush with a 1150 *1150 wetroom former in one corner. I would imaginethe former was originally 1200 * 1200 but has been trimmed on two sides to suitthe position of the waste. (it may be an aquadec, but I am not sure, my matesaid that the original builders said it was a bitch to cut and that it lookedlike being made from stone resin.)

At present thewalls are a mixture of skimmed plaster board and Plywood, we have a load ofMarmox boards on site and a roll of Durabase CI .

I am fairlyfamiliar with the Marmox and see no problems in sheeting over the walls. I willused adhesive sealant on the edges and reinforce the joints with tape, but nowI am stuck!

Question 1.

Should I tankthe walls and floor with a product like BAL WP1 first, then apply the decoupling membrane or should I use the decoupling membrane straight away?

Perhaps Ishould mention that the tiles are 600mm * 300mm Porcelain tiles.

My mate cannotafford to go with the tilesafe option and I am not sure if it would be ok touse this now as the UFH is set into a SLC.

I would proposeto rough up and prime the SLC prior to fixing down the decoupling membrane.


Question 2.

How far up thewalls should the tanking be extended?

Question 3.

I know I can’tuse the Durabase CI matting on the wall what should I use?


Thank you verymuch for taking the time to help.

Justyn

You say you have a load of Marmox board, why don't you fix those to the walls??

Hi Colour Republic,

I had intended to use the Marmox Boards, but I am stuck on the 'tanking' !

you'll only need to tank the taped joints in the 'wet area' as the boards are waterproof and 6 foot high should be ample height unless peter crouch lives there

Hello
bording walls with marmox is your best bet, prime latex and fit ditra with latex modified adhesive, also dont forget to tape joins, internal/external corners, if you decide to tank it then I would tank all wet area and 50 cm past it to each sides, but plywood in wet area is not a good option!
good luck buddy

..the matting itself is waterproof but you need to tape the joints with waterproofing tape, therfore you do not need to apply tanking under the matting. You should also tape the perimeter corners and return up the wall a 150 or so..and shower wall internal corner. Stick tape down with your tanking product- BAL WP1 is expensive - look around for cheaper alternative, same with the tape. You must tank the shower walls width of trayxheight of shower head (2xcoats is better). Tile backer board is also expensive but feel free to board out all the walls..your using a large format tile this should help you fixing direct to existing walls even if rough. Use good quality flexible adhesive and prime plaster. (why skim plasterboard if its being tiled). Check enough fixings in ply. Good luck

..actually probably not a good idea to putt matting over UFH as has insulating qualities

Originally Posted by Brownfinger

..actually probably not a good idea to putt matting over UFH as has insulating qualities

Ditra and Dural Ci+ are fine over UFH...

a bit harsh that chille anybody can go bust

Originally Posted by chille

1st builders went bust, second builders were Eastern European. . . says it all for me. . . trying to do a job on the cheap, no sympathy from me. . . good luck

You cannot make a comment like that without actually knowing the customer.... i suggest you think before you post..