Not really tiling I know but someone may have a good idea or two.

I will be fitting a 1700 by 800 shower tray in a recess. It weighs (I think) about 55kg. I will need to bed on mortar on raised plinth. Obviously I shall have to enlist an extra pair of hands . Problem is how do I position it on a bed of mortar, in a recess and level it?? Access from front only.

I have a few ideas but I would like advice from anyone who as tackled the problem before.

EasyT

everybody has a different way it seems, there is a thread on here somewhere detailing a few different methods see if it comes up in a search

Where is the waste hole? Ive done one before (1600 x 900) that was so heavy it was ridiculous.

If its a smooth finish i use glass suction pads to lower it in place with an extra pair of hands on the waste hole if its reasonably centred

There was mention few months back about using ice cubes in the mck to slide it across, these then melt and the tray rops to its final position. There was tak of it weakening the mix but on that size four small wet patches shouldnt matter too much.

ice cubes

beat me to it scott

Originally Posted by Scottley

Where is the waste hole? Ive done one before (1600 x 900) that was so heavy it was ridiculous.

If its a smooth finish i use glass suction pads to lower it in place with an extra pair of hands on the waste hole if its reasonably centred

There was mention few months back about using ice cubes in the mck to slide it across, these then melt and the tray rops to its final position. There was tak of it weakening the mix but on that size four small wet patches shouldnt matter too much.

I read the one about using ice cubes. The thought of a few ice cubes weakening the mix seemed ridiculous.

I am thinking of making sure the base is perfectly level. Celcon blocks on mortar bed (to allow for some ducts I need for an oil feed pipe, fire control line, and also condensate pipe and waste from shower. Top off with 20mm green ply. An exact 5mm of mortar bed (using some guide timbers).

At present I am thinking of lifting (with a friend) the tray onto a temporary platform and sliding into place. I am thinking of clearing a little mortar to allow two 10mm sq timber strops to be placed on the temporary base and the shower base and sliding on with the aid of two suction pads. Two of us take the weight. OH pulls out the two small timbers and we lower.

I can't see the two small linear voids being a problem.

Any thoughts??

And Yea. They are ridiculously heavy.

Easy T

I build mine on timber and top with min 15mm ply. Prime the board all round and mortar on top. Cut the ply 10mm short of the front so you can get a tile under the front if needed to cover the mortar.

You could trowel out your muck with a 10mm notch trowel that would give you an exact level. Id add a bit of sbr into the mix as well

Sounds a good idea to use the notched trowel Scottley.

PS. Where do you click to say thankful for a useful post ??

Id it the icon for' Add to users reputation?

Bottom right of the post it the'thanks' button

Originally Posted by Scottley

Where is the waste hole? Ive done one before (1600 x 900) that was so heavy it was ridiculous.

If its a smooth finish i use glass suction pads to lower it in place with an extra pair of hands on the waste hole if its reasonably centred

There was mention few months back about using ice cubes in the mck to slide it across, these then melt and the tray rops to its final position. There was tak of it weakening the mix but on that size four small wet patches shouldnt matter too much.

Thanks again Scottley. I have just received a pair of of glass lifters from transtools. Delivery was a little slow. Ordered Sat. Dispatched Tues. Arrived 7am today. I am impressed with them though. Solid feel and real grip,
Silverline Suction Glass Lifter Pad Triple - 100kg - Transtools

I have similar ones from screwfix, a double inline and a quad. Also useful for the screens and acrylic bath panels.

Originally Posted by Scottley

I have similar ones from screwfix, a double inline and a quad. Also useful for the screens and acrylic bath panels.

Yes I will definitely need them to put the screen in place.

I put her shower base in situ to try out the wall alignment. First I cut out the plaster on the wall opposite the doorway in a 1m arc so that I could take it in on edge and then lower onto some rollers. I also took off the airing cupboard doors (gave me another 7mm. I got some damaged underground drainage pipe cheap from B&Q. 3m length with damage to end - £5.

Regarding using polystyrene - I used to keep tropical fish in my last house and had three large tanks all stood on polystyrene. The 2 foot deep tank used to indent the polystyrene by about 2mm. Mind that was a lot of water. Should be OK for a shower base though.

Rollers are a good way of moving things, worked for the Egyptians!

When I had my old steel oil tamk removed three plumbers arrived to that and some other work. One was there just for an hour to help out. They drained the oil into a temporary tank and asked me to take a coner to make it easier. It was a 2600 litre tank, 45 years old and well made. No chance. We could lift it but bexause of where the temporary tank was sighted we needed to cross a 6 foot path, scale a 2 foot wall. cover 50 feet of lawn, cross 15 foot of patio, down three steps and a further 30 feet to their van.

I produced two 30 inch lengths of land drain and with me on the rollers it was a doddle. I said to them 'why the hell don't you buy some robust ribbed land drain, why struggle'.

I moved one of the steels thats gone into my new roof on my own, it wasnt masive but 6 metres long and about 180kg. One piece of steel tubing and 25mm diameter in the midle of it and it was a doddle

could you not put your addy down and put 15mm copper pipe in the addy and then slide the copper pipe out

Originally Posted by Scottley

I moved one of the steels thats gone into my new roof on my own, it wasnt masive but 6 metres long and about 180kg. One piece of steel tubing and 25mm diameter in the midle of it and it was a doddle

Yes I decided To roll the base up to the plinth onto a bed of weak sand and cement mortar but resting it on two copper pipes. That will let me manoeuvre it left and right slightly. Then I crouch like a sumo wrestler - elbows locked on knees - Grasp the two glass lifters on the base and raise the 60 kg enough for OH to pull out the pipes.

now that sounds like a plan

If tray is in a blind recess, get some of that plastic tape used to secure packages (probably used to secure cardboard around your shower cubicle panels). Use a batten at front of recess, with plastic tape around bottom of tray. Stand tray in verticle on batten (wont damage tray surface) and using tape (you need help and stout gloves) lower tray backwards slowly.

Once tray is lowered back in place pull out tape, and check levels - some jiggling of tray will cause any unevenness in mortar to level up. Some additional mortar may need to be trowelled under fromt of tray.

My plumber taught me this - seems to work well in most situations.

Can't be lowered vertically Andy. There is a tiling strip and so the distance between walls has to be less than the tray length. Has to be slid in.

Lol - its back to the copper pipes I guess - You make need several to distribute the weight and reduce the risk of the weight crushing the pipe.

Two will be OK. Tubes are very strong. Say you weigh 80 kilko and stand on a pipe it won't crush. The shower base has a bigger footprint.

If you have a few mates that are into working on cars like i do , borrow an engine crane assemble it in the bathroom.
use some packing strap around the base lifted it and wheeled it into postion and slowly lowered it onto the mortar bed.

A very easy 1 man operation.

didnt bother pulling the packing strap out , i just cut it flush with the top of the pan when the bed is dry.

Regards

My ensuite had a hole directly over the shower tray for the fan/light. I secured a block and tackle through the hole and attached same to the tray whilst on a workmate with strong webbing. Took away workmate, laid mortar, lowered tray, cut straps.
I have another to do next month, will do the same. probably best if there is access to room above, but screw hooks into ceiling joists would work.