I'm currently in the process of installing our new en-suite, and need to clarify what and how I need to do thing's, and most importantly make sure I do it correctly.

The floor is 22mm tongue and groove floorboards on 200 x 50 joists spaced at 400mm centers, this is further strengthened by cross bracing underneath the joists with 50 x 38 timber, as I needed to lower the ceiling below. There is 20mm Celotex beneath the floorboards between the joists, as I intend on having a heated floor.


Picture of floor partly insulated.

Two of the walls are stud partitions and these are boarded with Knauf Aqua Panel, one wall is Thermalite which I fitted battens to and boarded with Knauf Aqua Panel, the fourth wall is concrete block. Aqua Panel joints to be taped and filled.

We will be using Cappuccino Polished Marble, which weighs around 28kg meter, the shower tray area will be done in marble mosaics, which I believe are 5 x 5cm to hopefully make it less slippery.

The shower area will contain four body jets, a riser rail with shower head, and a ceiling drench rose. There will also be 3 valves, a stop **** to the body jets, a diverter and thermostatic valve.

The bath taps will be wall mounted, center of the bath under the window.

Here's some Google Sketchup pictures of my room, it's drawn to scale, with studs, noggins, joists and Aquapanel all in the correct place for future reference. If anyones interested the file can be downloaded from here.


Aerial View of En-suite


Through the wall view.

I'm considering using Wetdecs 1300 x 820 Tuff2 grp shower base former, and I see he still has an offer on the Dura WP tanking kits.

I will be over boarding the floorboards with 6mm ply as per instructions on Wetdecs website.



My (newbie) questions are:

1. Anybody see any problems with the above so far? Don't be too hard on me...
2. Should I tank just the floor (stress membrane), shower area and above the worktop and above the bath? Any need to do other areas?
3. Should the membrane come down the wall and slightly over lap the top edge of the bath?
4. Does the floor membrane run into the tray, or just up to the edge of the tray?
5. Is the heated floor usually laid into the shower tray?
6. Are the heated floor cables laid above or below the floor membrane?
7. Do I need to use a primer prior to applying tile adhesive, or does this depend on the adhesive used?

Sorry for a long post and so many questions, but I'd like to do it right.

will another look at this tonight but wet decs (Tony)is a great bloke to phone up and he'll answer any queries

If floor is not moving > then you can overboard with 6mm ply and stick uncoupling membrane on top of the ply, if you want to use underfloor heating then first you should prime the plywood >stick heating > lay some latex on top of heat mat, when latex dry stick uncoupling membrane, and then you ready to tile, thats how I would do your floor, even better would be to use 12 mm ply! but that's bonus, If you want to seal you bathroom completely then stick membrane up to the walls and use tanking tape in corners, I wouldn't bother to use membrane around the bath, if bath don't have shower then it's not necesary, you better tank walls, tanking should continue 500mm from bath, you stick bath with silicone to the wall, and then you can overlap tanking tape around the bath, I would run membrane slightly to the tray, don't stop on the joint, would be better if you stuck membrane with mapei vs-90 glue, if you gonna use this glue then latex don't need priming, this glue works much better then sticking membrane with adhesive, heating should stop near shower tray, I would use in the shower are wedi board, Knauf aqua panel don't need to be primed
Thanks

Looks like a good bolt n braces job, good luck with it.

just one thing someone else could clarify im sure 6mm ply is not thick enough to overboard with.

Several previous posts and replies state this but you say wet decs ok's it.

can anyone clear my confusion over this matter.????

Yeah, I have a habit of doing stuff bolts and braces, the floor is very strong and solid feeling, with proper tongue and grooved floorboards, not chip board.

It states the following on Wetdecs website:

Over Boarding Wood Floors For Tiles

Wood floors can be over boarded to strengthen in 2 ways:
Traditionally 18mm chipboard has had 12mm ply wood fixed to its surface. The ply wood sheets should be laid with staggered joints like brick work and be screwed at 150mm centres. 6mm ply can be used over traditional floorboards to give a working surface fixed as above
Wood floors. new screeds and heated screeds will move due to expansion and contraction, to avoid tiles cracking a stress membrane should be used especially under stone. Durabase CI membrane acts as both a stress and waterproof membrane for all floor types.

yup not 6mm, a lot of us use 6mm hardie these days, will check the site out, I just laid 6mm for Karndean and I wouldn't like to tile over it.

hi are they pine floorboards

Originally Posted by jay

hi are they pine floorboards

They look like pine to me, but they could be something else.

Couple of pictures from Google Sketchup





I'll post some real pictures as I progress.

We've not decided on worktop colour yet, so I've just drawn that as gray.



Anybody know what this is?



I designed and fabricated it myself, unfortunately never took a picture of the finished article, although you can see it in the photo above.

The frame for the wall hung toilet..?

Originally Posted by Dave

The frame for the wall hung toilet..?

I'd go for basin myself

Just with him saying it was in the photo above.. so thought the bog..

Originally Posted by Dave

Just with him saying it was in the photo above.. so thought the bog..

hmmm you could be right, the jpeg is called 'pan frame'... should have checked that first

Originally Posted by Dave

Just with him saying it was in the photo above.. so thought the bog..

Yep, it's the mounting frame for the wall hung bog, and there was a clue (well dead give-away) in the picture name.

Couldn't find one just like I wanted and they were around the £100 mark, had some suitable metal at work so I made one for nothing apart from my time.

I've been making progress and thought I'd post some more pictures

The first picture shows the units that I designed, I had the sink unit and the right-hand unit made, but they wanted far too much to make the drawer unit, so I'll make that one myself.

I've done the tanking, and fitted the units, I had intended to make the drawer unit yesterday, but can't get hold of any 18mm white chipboard, only local place that stocks it left their delivery in the rain all weekend
I've also fitted the kick board under the units - I used white PVC Fascia board.

As I couldn't make the drawer unit I started tiling yesterday, being well aware of the implications of getting it wrong it was quite stressful laying the first couple of tiles, but they went down well, got six layed yesterday afternoon, should get the rest of the floor done today.

Why didnt you put kick boards on after tiling ?

My thinking was that the tiles would hold the kick boards in place should they ever come unstuck.