Hi All,
I need to make a wet room with alcoves for my clients. It is on the ground floor with UFH in the screed. I have left the shower area of the screed out so I can create fall to the drain which is a 100mm pop up at this stage.
The shower is enclosed on 3 sides by timber walls, 2 internal and 1 external. It is 1200mm by 1350mm with the drain in approx the centre. I am lining the walls with cement board.
Am I best to form the floor with sand/ cement or use a pre formed tray? If sand cement what fall should I put in?
What tanking system would be best for this application?
How far past the edge of the shower should the tanking be?
What sort of adhesives , grout , silicones are best?
I live on an island off the west coast of Scotland and there is no one locally I trust to do this job.
Any help is much appreciated.

hi your best bet is to contact wet deck or just pm him sort out your tanking or waterproofing and then get the appropriate adh and grouts to suit hope this helps

Thanks Jay, I posted the same questions on wet dec website 1 week ago and no reply. Is he around at the momment?

he might be on site work send a pm through the forum he will answer

hi...i find schluters kerdi or durals wp membrane the best tanking system along with mapei adhesive grouts and silicones....not the cheapest but very good products

Thanks Stu

Tilux and Impey is just as good as Schluter and is definitely cheaper IMO.

Thanks Dan, I will check all these out.

hi...i find schluters kerdi or durals wp membrane the best tanking system along with mapei adhesive grouts and silicones....not the cheapest but very good product

Definately agree Stu, great system you've specified there

How thick is the screed where you have left out for the tray PRT?

I'm on an island off the North coast of Scotland or I would have done it for you mate

Hi Merlecollins, The screed is 75mm thick.
Another question, A guy has suggested tanking it with fibreglass.(he is great at telling people what you should be doing) I am not keen to do this because no one else has suggested it, nor have I seen it recommended anywhere. Do tiles stick to it? I wouldn't do it anyway, will definitely go with a tried and tested system.

Hi Merlecollins, The screed is 75mm thick.

Smashing - you've got plenty height to install a preformed tray, which, if skills are thin on the ground where you are, will be your best and easiest bet

I would definately give the fibre glass a miss, although I have fixed to it in the past, and opt for a product like the Schluter that Stu mentioned or Dan's Impey product

What tiles are you fixing to the wetroom?

Tiles are yet to be chosen by clients, are non slip better for the floor?

Tiles are yet to be chosen by clients, are non slip better for the floor?

I would guide them towards mosaic (not glass mosaic) for the floor, possibly stone mosaic - the joints will act as an antislip finish and you'll be able to tile your falls without enveloping larger tiles

Thats a greta idea for the floor, thank you.

This is the sort of thing I mean

As above, mosaic are easier.

One I screeded then tiled

Hi Phill, as per your pm m8 :



Plaster board the walls as normal then tank with Dura-wp in the wet area.
Using a Tilux former will give you the falls you need without having to guess and you can use most floor tiles as the majority are non slip these days but always check ye...

Using this former which has a snap in drain so no fuss:
http://www.diy-wetrooms.com/index.ph...oduct_id=29778

With this (10m)which will give you enough membrane to do your wet area and your new screeded floor:
http://www.diy-wetrooms.com/index.ph...oduct_id=29784

Hi The best system - and the most expensive [the two usually go hand in hand as you usually only get what you pay for in this life !] - is Lux - German wet dec and board system / Nicobond are UK agents. The fall is precut so no worries on drainage, same finish as cementous backer board. The system I use all the time for tanking on walls already in place is Porcelanosa's Imperband - This needs to be fixed with thin bed flex adhesive and overlay the joints - Internal corners are available. Crease corners with domestic iron- do not nick the one used for clothes as your wife might string you up
Tile all tiles and stone including large format porcelain etc direct to the surface. I've been creating high-end wet rooms in South Wales for more than 6 years and we are the larger single point trade installers in our area of Lux wet dec systems and we have never had a single leak in all that time - even in a 6 floor appartment.

Just added a couple of small photos to give you an idea

Hope this helps - If you any more help please let me know.

Lux is without question imo the leading tile backer board producer but its not anywhere near cheap and so quite often is overlooked.

The lux wet dec wetdec as you call it is no different in method to the cheap grey boards in the uk except again its far more expensive............

Porcelainosa are rebadgers they take a product and put their badge on it using their rep to market it.............

I apreciate you use both of these products but if honest there are better more economical products available out there which will do as good as or even better jobs.


PS.

If you want to sell your services then speak to Dan...............

Totally agree with Tony, we used Lux boards for years when doing Fitness First clubs, they are too expensive, there are other brands out there much cheaper and similar in quality.
What happened to the mosaics in Picture 3, the fixer must have lost his glasses.

Hello Wetdec - Probably not your real name, perhaps send me a note with contact details.

I'am interested by your response and the next time we have an enquiry / job to install a wet room system, I'll contact you and ask you for price although I will need to look at it ' in hand ' so to speak.

The Lux system became expensive due to Euro/Gbp exchange rates. However they are very flexible, making specials to our drawings and have a big range of shapes and sizes. You can trim and shape the deck to fit irregular recesses so installation in tight spaces is less of a worry.

That said I will give you a call when I do the next one.

Thanks for info.

Richard

Hi Diamond Drilling

I do agree to some extent with your comments as there are similar products and similar spec/ quality about, especially in the past 12 months or so. That said, you will know as you have used Lux systems, the boards go up to 100mm thick and in lots of other thicknesses, so we can create a whole range of design / structural features in bathrooms / wetrooms - ie walls and spa's - steam / sauna cabinets etc and I am able to obtain commpetitive prices from my stockist.

If you want basic boards to same/similar standard then over the past few months we have been offered a 2400m x 600mm board about 20% cheaper. If your buying a lot it is signicant. So do not totally disagree, however cheaper is not always the best way.

PS - I spoke to the guy who forgot his glasses. He said ' Look again and when you realise that all the glass edge tiles are hand cut on the curve and are internally smaller than they externally, ie radius, it is impossible to get a square lay pattern in two dimensions.' By the way, the wall glass tiles are by Original Style and have threads of gold running through them (£22.00 each) and have 30w x 12v lights behind them and glitter. The architect approved this lay-out and the client thought it was fabulous, so mindful of customer satisfaction, our tiler says he'll chuck out his safety glasses and use rose tinted ones in future. Thanks

Richard Edwards - The Quality Tiling Co Ltd

What a load of balloney, the glass tiles have been set first and the mosaics set after, the 'fixer' has not set out properly at all. He should have left a line of tiles out just left of the glass tiles, he could then have laid everything in line and with all grout lines as they should be, ie in line, the cuts would then be trimmed around the blue line to fit. His falls would follow the tray former and then cut around the pot. He has laid the tiles so that he gets a cut corner to corner to form a fall, if he had moved the bottom 4 rows that are left of the blue line and positioned them properly he would have had bigger cut tiles at the curve and everything would have lined up.
As for acquiring Lux boards at good trade prices I have no problem there at all, I have an account with the main importer based in Harrogate and have had that account for over 10 years now. They supply all the pre formed chairs and seating for the wet areas I install in Leisure centres, I have yet to find a company with better prices.

Hello Diamondtiling

Thanks for the advice. The guy without the glasses has taken note. However the Blue Glass Tiles were inserted after the Travertine 100 x 100mm and your are correct it was done to avoid skinny cuts around the blue tiles.

I'' think we will call it a day on that one, but your input was useful and we might approach the next job that is similar from a different angle.

Thanks to all contributers to this thread. I have a fair bit of info to research now. It is interesting reading all your comments and debates. I think this website is a great resource and its nice to know there are lots of people wanting to create a quality product and are willing to share their knowledge.
Thanks again
Phil

I'' think we will call it a day on that one, but your input was useful and we might approach the next job that is similar from a different angle.

You cant call it a day its tiled wrong and you have put your name to it m8. The trav should of gone down correctly and the arch templated on dry laid tiles at the edges before cutting that way excellence might come as standard.

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