Hi all,

I am tiling a ground floor shower room and would just like to confirm that a paint on latex type product is ok for the concrete floor.
I will be using a paint on product for the walls and as I am a complete novice I believe the paint on stuff will be easier for me to work with than any matting etc for the floor. Would I be correct?

Am not set on any product yet but I see Bal wp1 gets some good feedback, but is it true that the dunlop stuff is the same and cheaper?!?

Thanks for any help. Si

Si - to be honest i haven't got a clue but as no one has replied I thought I'd say hello!
Is it concrete or sand/cement.
Is there a damp course in the screed.
If its paint on and you have any rising damp its not going to work.
I always use the impey system for ground floor tanking situations.
From what i understand Bal bought Dunlop a few years ago and its just the branding thats the difference.

Timeless John.

The paint on stuff is not necessarily easier to work with. To make the product work correctly you MUST ensure that you have no pin holes in the "paint" which is why it normally takes 2 coats, and you have to wait for each coat to dry sufficiently before applying the next one. Membranes on the other hand can be tiled onto as soon as you have applied it.

Hi Simon, I use the paint on version lots of times, I use Ardex and I find it to be a very good product, all corners must be re-inforced with tape, the same applies to joints, two coats are the recommended spec but I always go for at least 3, I would suggest you read a few more threads on the forum and get as much info as you possibly can regarding tanking products, different situations require different products.........

Concrete floors dont need tanking.......


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Originally Posted by wetdec

Concrete floors dont need tanking.......


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That's why I asked if it was concrete - as yet no response.

John.

Sorry for the delay.Thanks for all your replies.

Yes, it is a new concrete screed laid on an existing concrete floor of an old extension. I believe there is a damp course, but not 100%. It has been exposed for 12 months and was in very good condition after the removal of the previous tiles and prior to the new level screed. Screed has been down for 2+ months.

I have read your website wetdecs and it does say on there that you don't need to tank GF concrete floors. Very informative website! I was thinking belt and braces approach.

I initially thought it would be easier to use paint on stuff as time is not a real issue and I do not have to tile immediately following the tanking. I can take my own sweet time doing the job really, as its for my sister. And it just seems more straight forward, I mean I can paint!

Does this sound ok.
-read more on here! Pick a product.
-tank walls, tape corners etc then tile walls
-tank floor, tape wall to floor area then tile floor

Stand back and admire (or then call one of you lot in !!!!)

Cheers for all your help. Si

Originally Posted by wetdec

Concrete floors dont need tanking.......


.

If it was screed floor or concrete, why not water proof???

Tanking is primarily to prevent ingres and in turn water damage, with screeds and concrete generally being ground floors there is little or nothing to damage below. If using bison beams 1st floor then you would tank.

IMO the only time you would find a tanked concrete floor (unless preventing rising moisture) is when you use an uncoupling membrane over heating, new screeds or anhydrite where the membrane acts as both an uncoupler and tank system.