tanking and brick walls - TilersForums.co.uk | Tile Forums

havago · 26-05-2008

I am new to tiling and I've been tasked with re-tiling a shower. The existing tiles have come away or are just about falling off the walls.
One wall has plasterboard which is water damaged and i intend replacing it with ****panel; one wall has plaster over brick and the third is plain brickwork.The brick and plaster/brick wall's look sound. The shower tray is right against the brick wall that houses the electric shower, with just enough room to take the thickness of a tile.

I would love some advice on how to proceed with tanking, how to deal with corners, and also and how far up do i tank. Would the Dunlop tanking kit be suitable?

Alot to ask but i hope someone can help. - Thanks .

**wetdec** · 26-05-2008

When you say just enough room to take the thickness of a tile, between what and what are you talkin about ?

Give me that and I will walk you through it

Hope you'e not got your username on your business cards

tiler

havago · 27-05-2008

Thank you for responding.
the shower tray seems to be set right against the back brick wall so that there is no room on the tray-lip/edge to accommodate anything more than a tile thickness. If a panel were to be put up before tiling the tiles would in the tray and not on the edge, so to speak.

One never knows what user name to use, so i thought of something that might bring out a smile.

**wetdec** · 27-05-2008

So what was on this wall was it tiled previously, is it rendered ??

tiler

havago · 27-05-2008

Yes the wall was tiled.

havago · 27-05-2008

Yes, the wall was tiled. There isn't any render, the tile adhesive appears to have been put direct onto the brickwork.

**dock** · 28-05-2008

havago

according to bs 5385 part4:1992 clause 6. background should preferably be cement:snd rendering.....not brickwork

would suggest the use of nivoplan (2 - 30mm) used at the thinner end will provide a surface suitable to be tanked.

tank with either mapegum wps OR mapelastic (overall 2 coat thickness 2mm)

fix in solid bed of cement based such as adesilex p9

grout with water resistant Ultracolor Plus (26 colours) but could consider kerapoxy if a water impervious grout is required.

internal vertical corners and junction of all and floor seal with mapesil AC to match colour of grout (27 colours)

dock

havago · 28-05-2008

Thank you for the advice

**wetdec** · 28-05-2008

Hi Havago

Ok I wouldnt bother with the tile backer board just re-plasterboard it when this is done then you will be back to 3 surfaces to work off.

Get yourself a couple of lengths of bath seal and cut these to length to go around the shower base. Tack these in place having run a good silicone seal around beneath them so giving a good seal to the base.

When this is done I would use a Durabase wp (pm me for this) tanking membrane to tank the walls down onto the bath seal. The shortest roll is 5m so will do the job no problem and is only 1mm thick. This can be cut to length and fixed to the wall like wall paper using a thin 3or4mm trowel and Bal single part flexi. Overlap your corners and bring the membrane down over the bath seal to create a perfect seal all around. (putting the membrane on the brick wall first)

Once the membrane is up you can start to tile as you would any other wall as there is no drying out with Durabase wp so no down time.

Asn questions then shout

tiler

havago · 28-05-2008

Hi Wedec,

Thank you for the advice, and your patience. I'll "havago" and let you know the outcome.