2 coats acrylic primer cross coat between application to ensure full coverage.
A decoupling Matt would be fine to use, Ive mentioned fast flex earlier, when used with a 3mm solid bed fixing trowel becomes a decoupling system as it contains a rubber instead of a sand, as you’ll have solid bed...
Waste of money even the reps & manufactures state it’s not worth using insulation Boards on wooden floors only need them on concrete floors.
You won’t get a return on investment for years. The savings on a concrete floor, pay for the boards after 2 years. So what’s the stat for wood which is a...
Pointless using hardie & decoupling systems together
A 10mm backerboard will only decouple and won’t give any structural integrity to the floor. It’s simply an water resistent overlay to stop tiles debonding.
Both hardie, and ditra take out any minimal lateral movement. (Movement from left to...
Get down to Topps tiles for some max flex fibre can't go wrong with that stuff, 4 hour pot life grout after 16 hours (so next morning) fibre reinforced and is an S1
Quartz can have UFH fitted to it as long as nothing is placed directly on top of it I.e the cupboards or a fridge so the main areas can be heated.
To fit the tiles your best using bal PTB with AD1
I tend to use 2mm walls 3mm floor
Minimum is 2mm on a floor !
I tend to start using 4mm and 5mm when I'm working with bigger tiles 1000x1000 due to the working size of a tile.
Prime with a acrylic or sbr primer and use a standard adhesive not need for flexi as it's concrete ensure the adhesive is grey to ensure no staining of the slate, then seal with an appropriate slate sealer or intensifier.
Ensure that the Vinyl is clean and grease free, then use a BAL Single Part Fastflex Adhesive which is an S2 classifciation adhesive which will out perform BSEN12004.
Spec Taken From BAL
"Most substrates including: Asphalt (suitable grade e.g. flooring), Concrete, cement:sand screeds and...
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