Hi all

I have just had a new kitchen floor installed using floor boards over screed as old fired earth tiles were taken up. Have primed floor and laid Warm up UFH mats down. The question is do I require to lay a level compound over the top to protect the wire eg Cementone cempolay level compound from Travis Perkins, then lay flexi adhesive when laying tiles or not bother with a level compound?

Also if I do require level compound where can I purchase it from on a Sunday. I know B & Q sell unibond but this is not flexible.


Michael

always slc over ufh wires, must be a latex as well. puzzled about floor boards on screed though

When the builders removed the fired earth tiles they dug down abut 3 inches to bottom concrete floor. Instead of re screeding all the floor to bring back to old level they installed woodern joists and then boards on top. Looks good and warmer but just need to know re this compound as heard some many rumours re latex reacting wire electric cable over time...so now really confused!!

Also which DIY place sells this on Sunday as tiler comes in on Tuesday.

Do it tomorrow, it will dry in 4 hours and can be tiled on Tuesday.

Slc will not react with wires.

Thanks for advise..Any idea where the best place to purchase SLC and quantity for 12 sqm?

buy 5 bags in case. phone round your tile shops tomorrow for your best price. if you post where you are you might get a better response

Originally Posted by jules335500

Thanks for advise..Any idea where the best place to purchase SLC and quantity for 12 sqm?

If you want it today then B and Q do a latex slc, its called sika.

Have you a Tile Giant near to you, if so get the latexplan

Latex Plan 20kg Two Part Flexible Self Levelling Compound - Floor Tile Adhesive - Tile Adhesive & Grout

In Norwich so all thanks for advise

No problem all free advice on here.

I was under the impression that you don't have to self level over ufh. I know it makes the job easier for tilers but surely with a flexi adhesive and grout then why the need for sl? It's just an added cost and is causing confusion for the poster. Just my opinion but anybody know why he HAS to sl it? SL is NOT meant to cover the wires, it is only used to bring it to the same level as the wire height so no need for it if you ask me. Also, if the poster is going to do this himself (without being disrespectful) there may be a chance that the sl could be applied wrong, leaving lumps and uneveness fo the tiler to overcome, with the possibility of a wrong mixture cracking in the future, sorry to throw a spanner in the works but just going off past experience

It is to encapsulate the wires and disperse the heat evenly.
As for the theory of an added cost..not so. One way or another the areas between the wires need to be filled with something, be it adhesive or SLC.
Taking the SLC route should you have to remove a tile at a later date for repair you will stand a far better chance of not damaging the UFH cables.

Have to disagree with the comment about encapsulating the wire and dispersing the heat. Unless a cheaper brand is used(no names mentioned) then most ufh companies tell you NOT to cover the wire with anything except tile adhesive and tiles. UFH is often wrongly thought to disperse heat but is a direct heat point so heat will not "disperse" through the sl like you may think but will actually just act in exactly the same way as not covering it in sl (heat may have a 2-4 inch heat spread but no more) places with large gaps in wires will be significantly colder. I don't mean to be a pain just want the best and easiest result for the poster as they are clearly in a hurrry.

Originally Posted by D.T.W

Have to disagree with the comment about encapsulating the wire and dispersing the heat. Unless a cheaper brand is used(no names mentioned) then most ufh companies tell you NOT to cover the wire with anything except tile adhesive and tiles. UFH is often wrongly thought to disperse heat but is a direct heat point so heat will not "disperse" through the sl like you may think but will actually just act in exactly the same way as not covering it in sl (heat may have a 2-4 inch heat spread but no more) places with large gaps in wires will be significantly colder. I don't mean to be a pain just want the best and easiest result for the poster as they are clearly in a hurrry.

DTW your information is very flawed mate, In 10 years of fitting UFH (23 years fixing)I have yet to come across a manufacturer that recommends not covering the loom. Your argument not to do so carries no weight whatsoever, Who are these companies that you speak of?

Originally Posted by D.T.W

Have to disagree with the comment about encapsulating the wire and dispersing the heat. Unless a cheaper brand is used(no names mentioned) then most ufh companies tell you NOT to cover the wire with anything except tile adhesive and tiles. UFH is often wrongly thought to disperse heat but is a direct heat point so heat will not "disperse" through the sl like you may think but will actually just act in exactly the same way as not covering it in sl (heat may have a 2-4 inch heat spread but no more) places with large gaps in wires will be significantly colder. I don't mean to be a pain just want the best and easiest result for the poster as they are clearly in a hurrry.

Like I said ...Name these companies !

Underfloor Heating Store | Underfloor Heating

Electric Underfloor Heating - Underfloor Heating

There are two manufacturers above in the links, they were the first I picked out of hundreds, both say to cover the UFH. I would back out now and admit to the mistake.

Originally Posted by jules335500

When the builders removed the fired earth tiles they dug down abut 3 inches to bottom concrete floor. Instead of re screeding all the floor to bring back to old level they installed woodern joists and then boards on top. Looks good and warmer but just need to know re this compound as heard some many rumours re latex reacting wire electric cable over time...so now really confused!!

Also which DIY place sells this on Sunday as tiler comes in on Tuesday.

Leave this levelling to your tiler.. he has to give the guarantee on the job , so best to leave prep etc to him..

Originally Posted by D.T.W

I was under the impression that you don't have to self level over ufh. I know it makes the job easier for tilers but surely with a flexi adhesive and grout then why the need for sl? It's just an added cost and is causing confusion for the poster. Just my opinion but anybody know why he HAS to sl it? SL is NOT meant to cover the wires, it is only used to bring it to the same level as the wire height so no need for it if you ask me. Also, if the poster is going to do this himself (without being disrespectful) there may be a chance that the sl could be applied wrong, leaving lumps and uneveness fo the tiler to overcome, with the possibility of a wrong mixture cracking in the future, sorry to throw a spanner in the works but just going off past experience

Most UFH suppliers recommend it now... Do you tile for a living..?

I always cover heat mats with 2 part slc, avoids any voids and hot spots close to the heat source.

I use slc's on-top of heat mats. No problem with doing this.

Originally Posted by Sir Ramic

It is to encapsulate the wires and disperse the heat evenly.
As for the theory of an added cost..not so. One way or another the areas between the wires need to be filled with something, be it adhesive or SLC.
Taking the SLC route should you have to remove a tile at a later date for repair you will stand a far better chance of not damaging the UFH cables.

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