Hi all

I have been working out my new floor height when I have installed my UFH in the bathroom.

3mm Adhesive
10mm Thermopanel
6mm Self levelling compound (containing the UFH wire)
4mm Adhesive
6mm Tile

That adds up to 29mm, I will need a chuffing lift to get into the bathroom from the hallway.................!!!!

There used to be carpet in the bathroom @ around a thickness of 10mm so its a big differance.

What do you guys & gals do to overcome this or do you just fit a ramp or somthing.......?????!!!!!!!????

Many thanks

Cheers.............

It's always difficult to ensure you're getting the most equal level possible in situations like this, but it isn't always possible to get them exact, without lifting the other floor, obviously.

I'd consider going to Underfloor Heating | Electric | Floor Insulation | Uheat and getting 6mm insulation, and using their 3mm cable you'll only need 4mm or so levelling compound.

Then with what height difference you have left you may be able to use a standard screwed door trim which would leave a small ramp. Or I've made wooden versions before that look smart varnished or whatever, and screw that to the floor.

To be honest it's a common problem and there's never an easy solution.

Take up the chipboard/floorboards, relay with 18mm ply, fit insulation, heating and tiles.

Bobs your uncle.
























(unless you don't have an uncle bob, in that case Fanny's your Aunt unless you don't have an Aunt Fanny either)

What thickness are the floorboards? Good point that Dom!

Originally Posted by Dan

I'd consider going to Underfloor Heating | Electric | Floor Insulation | Uheat and getting 6mm insulation, and using their 3mm cable you'll only need 4mm or so levelling compound.

I got a very good quote from U Heat and have exchanged a few emails with them, very helpfull by the way and they recommended the 10mm board & loose wire installation which is 4.3mm thick, I would then pore self levelling compound over this to seal it.
The room is only 3m sq but the toilet is set at an angle in a corner so I guess the wire system was better suited to my install.

The existing floor is approx 18mm tongue & groove boards. If I relayed the floor in 18mm ply could I then use a 6mm insulation board, mind you only saving 4mm for the price of a couple of sheets of ply......!!!

I thought about laying the wire then spreading the adhesive and laying the tiles but would not be able to gaurantee an equal coating of adhesive, plus the issue of the wire getting damaged.......!!!!

Why did I suggest to the wife it would be nice to have UFH.....

Thanks gents....................

T&G boards is not suitable to tile onto at all, fixing 10mm insulation boards wont add any strength either. The correct prep now will save you money in the long term.
As for the height difference I spray glue extra thick underlay right outside the door, refit the existing underlay and carpet and use a doorway trim that allows for two different heights.

Originally Posted by diamondtiling

Take up the chipboard/floorboards, relay with 18mm ply, fit insulation, heating and tiles.

So is this order correct, from the tile down this time:

6mm Tile
4mm Flexible Addy
6mm SLC (including UFH wire)
6mm Ekoboard insulating board
3mm Flexible Addy
18mm Ply floor

That's down to 25mm total thickness which is getting better I guess.

Ive heard of many people tiling over tongue and grooved floor boards after covering with a cement based board, is this bad practice.../

Cheers.......

What size trowel are you using for your tiles? 10mm at least.

Not sure what trowel to use as I have never done a tiled floor before, well except my natural slate patio I have just finished.

Is 10mm the norm for floor tiles then?


Cheers..............

10mm will give you the coverage you need on the tiles, depending on what size they are they may need to be back skimmed as well.

u can tile onto 18mm t/g boards just make sure thier screwed down

as Dave had said but i use grpfill to fix them

Originally Posted by Houston

u can tile onto 18mm t/g boards just make sure thier screwed down

??????? I would beg to differ

Originally Posted by Phil Hobson

??????? I would beg to differ

me too Phil

y Phill & Doug

sorry and diamond tiling

T&G is not a suitable substate for tiles, never was never will be!, overboard with min 15mm ply and to be sure, glue and screw backerboard. That way no probs, providing there is no deflection in the floor

Phil, i think you are wrong. If T&G boards are rigid screwed to joists and sometimes you might need some extra noggins its not a problem. Bal & Granfix do adhesives for T&G that i have used over the years and no probs

We all have the right to our own opinions mate, but we are not doing this forum any good by giving bad advice. I stand by what I said re: T&G. I am well aware of the products you mention. I would never tile directly onto T&G

phill its not bad advice its fact, u can tile on T&G boards.

Originally Posted by Houston

Phil, i think you are wrong. If T&G boards are rigid screwed to joists and sometimes you might need some extra noggins its not a problem. Bal & Granfix do adhesives for T&G that i have used over the years and no probs

one of these company's used to have lots of probs and changed the goalposts overnight to having 30 cmts centers on joists i only ever have that in the commercial market with 40mm thick chipboard or tg ply i have seen lots of problems over the years direct on floorboards with the said adhesive some of the smaller floors i have seen had survived but i wouldn't take the risk after 28 years of tiling and the adhesive named will blame you without a doubt if there is any probs they will run a mile believe me they will not take any blame

Originally Posted by Houston

phill its not bad advice its fact, u can tile on T&G boards.

I wasn't having a pop at you Houston, It's just something I would never do. As above adhesive manufacturers bring out these easy fix, no prep all singing, all dancing adhesives. Then when the proverbial hits the fan they don't want to know. In my 43yrs experience in tiling in the UK and abroad, I have never/will never tile directly to T&G. Just my opinion

With wood's tendency to expand so much across its width, I can't imagine getting a stable floor built of T&G strip flooring. Something needs to go over it to isolate the tile from the movement of the wood flooring.

We're on a job now which had tile set straight over T&G flooring. All three bathrooms had problems, the kitchen was so-so. Not a good track record for tile on T&G in that house.

Originally Posted by mmmadman

I got a very good quote from U Heat and have exchanged a few emails with them, very helpfull by the way and they recommended the 10mm board & loose wire installation which is 4.3mm thick, I would then pore self levelling compound over this to seal it.
The room is only 3m sq but the toilet is set at an angle in a corner so I guess the wire system was better suited to my install.

The existing floor is approx 18mm tongue & groove boards. If I relayed the floor in 18mm ply could I then use a 6mm insulation board, mind you only saving 4mm for the price of a couple of sheets of ply......!!!

I thought about laying the wire then spreading the adhesive and laying the tiles but would not be able to gaurantee an equal coating of adhesive, plus the issue of the wire getting damaged.......!!!!

Why did I suggest to the wife it would be nice to have UFH.....

Thanks gents....................

T&G boards is not suitable to tile onto at all, fixing 10mm insulation boards wont add any strength either. The correct prep now will save you money in the long term.
As for the height difference I spray glue extra thick underlay right outside the door, refit the existing underlay and carpet and use a doorway trim that allows for two different heights.

__________________
watch movies online

its all in the prep

Houston, I have to agree with the others re: the t&g from a bad personal experience, where I was asked by my customer to tile onto t&g which I screwed really tight. The issue was height, because the front door was a pvc one and couldn't be trimmed at the bottom to accomodate any extra height that overboarding would cause, so I advised it best not to tile at all, but they were insistent, and, instead of walking away I gave in. Having done the job, I was waiting for the phone call, and sure enough in 3 months time - "can you replace 6 tiles that have cracked please" I got paid for it, but I was really uncomfortable doing this knowing that it would probably go again, which it did, but on the upside I could have been employed there full time replacing them when they went, but you just can't say told you so. The moral of the story is that I would NEVER do this again for anyone, I'd rather walk away from it in future. I have to say I think you have been lucky so far, I only did it the once. But we will all do things differently, that's what makes us human.

Mr Bruty, its got nothing to do with luck, its all in the prep!

Originally Posted by Houston

Phil, i think you are wrong. If T&G boards are rigid screwed to joists and sometimes you might need some extra noggins its not a problem. Bal & Granfix do adhesives for T&G that i have used over the years and no probs

hve you seen what happens to T&G flooring after plasterers have been in???? the edges curl up! just imagine those edges
curling up under your tiles!!

Originally Posted by Houston

Mr Bruty, its got nothing to do with luck, its all in the prep!

Houston did you by any chance, do a Bal course? just curious.